Access Threatened!
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So access to my local crag has been threatened. It's not a particularly spectacular climbing spot, but it is close to home and there is a crack at the southern end that I just can't get enough of, and two medium size peaks to the north. |
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Tweek those peaks every chance you get or risk losing your cherished splitter |
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To give you solid advice, we need to see a picture of this....."land manager" |
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Perhaps you should wear in some trail at another crack with bigger peaks, she may change her mind, you may grow to like the other crack. |
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sampling other crack in the area is a good idea, as long as you can find it fast. You don't want to wait too long in between hits of those cracks. Unless of course the crack you have now is more potent and cheaper than all the other cracks. Maybe you should just switch to sport climbing. |
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It's possible that you've been on that crack enough that you feel comfortable trying it without protection. |
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Landowner's wishes win, every time. It's important to respect their wishes, and through conversation come to an agreement they are comfortable with that you and the climbing community will uphold. Sometimes that means taking the longer way around. Sometimes that means losing access, which makes the longer way around look much more attractive. The Access Fund has great resources for this if you wish, to expand on Scott McNamara's link: |
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Man, you guys are good. |
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Sometimes mountains aren't for everyone. In this day and age, it's OK to admit that you prefer bulbous desert towers. No one's going to judge you for that. And I hear there's some dude stranded out in that area, looking to make a few bucks any way possible... |
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Have you considered inviting other climbers to enjoy your crag? If one party was working the northern areas while you were hitting the crack line, that would even out the wear, would it not? |
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This thread would be a lot more useful with pictures. |
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If you are going to go do it, try bringing a bunch of friends to run quick laps in the crack (maybe even simul it) but save enough energy to finish on the face. Then send a few people over to enjoy the mountains. The owner will appreciate the diversity, not focusing wear on one site, and may even like face action better than the crack. At least this way everywhere gets abused the same, albeit by a train of people when it does go. Just make sure to protect it properly so no one gets hurt and clean up before you leave. |
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If you follow any of the advice in this thread - I'm pretty sure you'll be finding yourself having to solo it. |
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It is too hard to judge without any pictures. Upload a couple and use the topo tool on this site to show us your favorite lines, including the peaks and crack of course. |
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Just sneak in while the landowner is sleeping... |
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Dan G0D5H411 wrote:In this day and age, it's OK to admit that you prefer bulbous desert towers. No one's going to judge you for that.Oh I can't wait to judge someone for admitting that! |
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I would follow her wishes. If access is denied you will be stuck at home conditioning on your woody. |
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Not to be harsh but it seems like an obvious choice to listen to the land manager. She is threatening to restrict access based on your actions and you have to ask whether you should listen to her? |
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go barefoot and leave no trace |
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My wife and I discussed this over breakfast this morning, and she had some suggestions you might consider: |