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 ADVANCED
Castle Rock Proper
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Access Route T,TR 
Chimney T,TR 
Chock stone TR 
Face TR 
Farewell to Arms T,TR 
South Face Center TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Access Route 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: rodent
Page Views: 1,533
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 15, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Max Paik, ascending his first outdoor climb. Phot...

Description 

On the left side of the south face of Castle Rock is probably the easiest way to the top. Once this may have been considered 5.0, but erosion has left this a bit trickier.

You can start up a crack on the left side with big stems or go around left and pass a bulge. Pass another minor bulge with an awkward crack. Thread a natural slot, and move left. One small step and you're on top.

You can downclimb this or rappel off to the north.

It can get busy with clients or downclimbers.

You might consider this as you search for a first outdoor climb for your young, budding rock climbing nephrew, but it's a bit of a challenge for those younger than 8. Maybe the Swiss Cheese Face on Goat Rock?

Location 

This is on the left side of the south face of Castle Rock.

Protection 

A few cams to #1 Camalot, a bolt, a natural thread.


Photos of Access Route Slideshow Add Photo
Free solo access to top of Castle Rock
Free solo access to top of Castle Rock
Free solo access to top of Castle Rock
Free solo access to top of Castle Rock

Comments on Access Route Add Comment
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By RichieRich
Jan 1, 2015

Looking at the picture which shows the sharp Left turn after the first crack.... if you continue straight up the crack it makes for a fun variation... Toproped with a directional from the bolt on the top (can't see it unless you follow the route in the picture). With the directional you'll swing a little down low, but it's easier climbing... up high maybe a 5.8/9ish? move to "summit". If you want to lead, you can place gear down low to protect the easier climbing but not sure about the crux. Cheers!