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 ADVANCED
Castle Rock Proper
Select Route:
Access Route T,TR 
Chimney T,TR 
Chock stone TR 
Face TR 
Farewell to Arms T,TR 
project, The 
South Face Center TR 
Waimea Arete 
Waimea Wall 

Access Route 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: rodent
Page Views: 1,440
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 15, 2008

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Max Paik, ascending his first outdoor climb. Phot...

Description 

On the left side of the south face of Castle Rock is probably the easiest way to the top. Once this may have been considered 5.0, but erosion has left this a bit trickier.

You can start up a crack on the left side with big stems or go around left and pass a bulge. Pass another minor bulge with an awkward crack. Thread a natural slot, and move left. One small step and you're on top.

You can downclimb this or rappel off to the north.

It can get busy with clients or downclimbers.

You might consider this as you search for a first outdoor climb for your young, budding rock climbing nephrew, but it's a bit of a challenge for those younger than 8. Maybe the Swiss Cheese Face on Goat Rock?

Location 

On the left side of the south face of Castle Rock.

Protection 

A few cams to #1 Camalot, a bolt, a natural thread.


Photos of Access Route Slideshow Add Photo
Free solo access to top of Castle Rock
Free solo access to top of Castle Rock
Free solo access to top of Castle Rock
Free solo access to top of Castle Rock

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