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Accelerated Climbology 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Marcy & Geir
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,925
Submitted By: Marcy on Oct 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: FA of Accelerated Climbology

Description 

Great, fun climbing on a mixture of face and crack on the north side of the formation. Climb 30 up a corner / crack system on the right side of the face. Traverse a few feet left to 5 bolts heading up the face 60 to a second crack system. Follow the cracks system until it widens to a chimney. Place some gear and pull the harrowing exposed bulge on your right to the top.

Descent: Two single line rappels. First rap - 60 feet to the chimney climbers left of the route. Second rap - 100 feet to start of route.


Location 

See overview photo


Protection 

Standard rack with doubles <3



Photos of Accelerated Climbology Slideshow Add Photo
Chawn Harlow enjoying Accelerated Climbology
Chawn Harlow enjoying Accelerated Climbology
FA of Accelerated Climbology
FA of Accelerated Climbology
Roman leading Accelerated Climbology
Roman leading Accelerated Climbology
EFR leading Accelerated Climbology
BETA PHOTO: EFR leading Accelerated Climbology
Greg at the start.
Greg at the start.
Comments on Accelerated Climbology Add Comment
Show which comments
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 2, 2009

Long pitch that gets you to the top of the tower, good rock and pro with an excellent finish. Gotta lover it!

By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 16, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I love this climb. The rappel is annoying though, with a high probability for rope clusterfks. I used single set of cams to 2" + nuts and a few hexes. The first time I climbed this I underestimated the length and ran out of draws near the top.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 16, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Marcy and I will be changing the rappel shortly - actually we already went to do it, but someone forgot the batteries for the drill...

By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Nov 16, 2009

Who was the brainiac who forgot the batteries :D

The new rappel will be 2 single line raps and will return you nicely to the base of the route instead of the current single double rope rap that takes you between the Climbology tower and the tower to the West.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 23, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I cannot confirm the identity of the person who forgot the batteries. Doing so would be too embarrassing. :)

By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Nov 24, 2009

The new rappel anchors have been added! Two single line raps put you back at your packs.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 25, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is one of my favorite routes in LDE. With the addition of the new rappel anchors, the route can now be done with one 60 meter rope. The climb has interesting moves and goes on and on - and the bulge at the end of the climb delivers a great kick in the butt. The summit is terrific. Don't miss this one.

By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 19, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a great mixed climb, and it is very long. Did this as a "warm up", and found I needed to keep some endurance going. Seems 5.9 to me.

By Jimbo
Apr 27, 2010

Big long pitch of great climbing. Perfect for those that like short cruxes with easier climbing in between.

I'd give it 5.9+ through the bolted section.

The new rap works great. We ran out of rope right when we hit the ground on the second rap so be sure to even up your rope ends before you rap.

By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Feb 24, 2014

A great route and fun summit. I was glad we did it as two pitches, more adventure for everyone. Heck of a walk to get to it though.