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Acapulco Arete 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Maddux, John Hansen 1995
Page Views: 857
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Oct 22, 2005
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Description 

Just left of Chickenhead Holiday is this slabby area. There are three bolted beginnings here. This is the rightmost. Carefully work your way to the first bolt avoiding the potentially dangerous pre-bolt fall. Continue to the 2nd and veer left to the third bolt just off the blunt arete. Here the route steepens and the crux awaits. It seemed harder than 5.10b to me.


Protection 

3 draws for the climb and 2 for the chains, a runner for a chickenhead tie-off would be helpful and if desired bring a couple of medium pieces for the easy finish.



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By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
Oct 13, 2006

I seconded this... This route, like a lot of slab routes in LCC has bolts above good stances and pretty good run outs (PG-PG13). I think this would be a heck of an exciting lead! And I don't want to try it any time soon.

By Timmy Fearn
Apr 2, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Good lead, I had an extra buddy give a spot, just to push me away from the abyss should I have fallen before the first bolt, but it's pretty easy to there. I wonder if some of those flakes have broken off on the wall to the right of the arete cause I was like 5.10b??? But maybe it was just sequential cause when I finally nailed it, I just cruised. That third bolt is way solid. I checked it many times before I knew what was up!

By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
Apr 22, 2007

1 star? 2 stars? WTF? This thing is great.

Yeah, I don't know about the 10b rating either. It is a little bit of an exciting lead. Getting to the first bolt is not that bad. It is nice to have a runner to tie off the chickenhead above the third bolt as it is your last piece of protection. I don't remember seeing places for gear.