Acadia- Otter Cliffs question

I'm doing some research for a possible trip up to Acadia next summer and it'd be nice to climb a few routes at Otter Cliffs, possibly a few other cliffs. I was under the impression that Otter Cliffs was entirely top managed and rappel access to the base only, but one page implied you could reach the base by walking around during low tide. Is this true? I will be buying a guidebook in a little while so excuse me if it is described in there.

There is a low-tide scramble around to the right (looking out to sea), but it is a bit on the tricky side--one of my friends inadventantly went for a swim going down it. No harm done except to his pride, but need to be careful. Rapping down is the usual method--especially during the higher part of the tide cycle--and is quite straight-forward--other than taking the step over the edge. On the left side (again facing seaward) there are large ring bolt and staple anchors curtosy of the NPS, further right you have to build your own anchors--no use of trees permitted. Really good little crag, definitely worth a visit. Champlain--The Precipice--is the best--by far--of the inland crags and also has stunning views out to the Atlantic. Alan

So I was out there back at the end of the summer and it bears repeating - when the guidebooks say that you need a *lot* of webbing to set of TRs for some of these routes, they are not kidding. You might need something like 30ft of webbing (for each piece of your anchor) to be able to TR the seastack routes at Otter cliff.

zswan wrote:So I was out there back at the end of the summer and it bears repeating - when the guidebooks say that you need a *lot* of webbing to set of TRs for some of these routes, they are not kidding. You might need something like 30ft of webbing (for each piece of your anchor) to be able to TR the seastack routes at Otter cliff.

I believe I remember setting up an anchor for these routes off a seam/crack on the stack itself. Maybe a tricam or two, a .5 purple, and something else? I don't remember it being too much of a hassle, but not everyone would have gear if they intend to TR only.

Climbed there in October. We had the entire cliff to ourselves the whole day - it was great! Definitely buy the guidebook. A new one just came out and all the local climbing shops had it. It is definitely worth the money. Saved us a TON of time.

Regarding the sea stack, I set up an anchor on the main cliff and extended it with two single strands of tubular webbing out the the edge of the stack. I think I used two offset nuts, a BD #4 and a BD #2 all equalized with cordlette and a BFK to lockers. Bomber. I read on MP that others had built an anchor on the sea stack and thoroughly searched the stack but could not find any gear options. Definitely nothing for a purple BD cam. Over the edge there were a plethora of placement opportunities, but that would require a bit of unprotected down climbing I wasn't willing to do. Perhaps that's what others did? Here was my anchor.

Sea stack anchor

Another thought - we rigged two prussiks clipped to runners just above the knot in case we got in over our head until we had a feel for the grade. Not a bad idea if you want to have an easy way off the route without rigging a haul system or if you are pushing your grade on TR. Personally, I found the routes to be fairly easy for the grades.

mountainproject.com/v/otter…

mountainproject.com/v/climb…

If you plan on leading most of your routes (it's actually pretty uncommon, but totally worth it. Most folks tend to TR only), it might be worth bringing a second shorty rope to leave fixed for rappels. It really helps to speed things up to get more climbing in!

I wouldn't recommend using the scramble entrance/exit unless you are very comfortable with that sort of thing. While it is relatively easy climbing, it has a few fifth class moves in there, and it definitely isn't without consequence. I'd say that Alan's buddy who pitched got really lucky getting out of the water easily and safely.

Climbing on those sea cliffs is a beautiful thing, but it is wise to head out there with a few basic tricks up your sleeve. Use the Acadia trip as a reason to nail down the bare bones of self rescue and you'll be golden.

Definitely an incredible place to climb!

Depending on how busy the crag is, and how comfortable you are leaving a rope setup for others to use, we, in the past, have left a TR setup on Child's Play (short 5.5) all the while we are down on the shelf leading stuff. Think of it as a safety valve.

Nolan Huther wrote:Thanks for all the feedback! My concern wasn't rappeling so much as it was getting a climb someone couldn't finish and having to set up a haul system or move the anchor to an easier climb to get out. The scramble is a nice tool to have in the bag too. Just as long as we keep an eye on the tides!

I would not trust anyone who can't get out on toprope to be able to get out on that unroped scramble, even assuming your trip happens to coincide right with the tides.

Better to plan on how to get all of your party out safely the normal way. And no, this does not require any self-rescue techniques. It does require some forethought and understanding of the limitations in the various members of your party's physical and technical abilities.

GO