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AC separation pains continue

Original Post
Stephen Burns · · Telluride, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 25

Howdy, so the story goes that I broke my distal clavicle and separated my AC joint snowboarding last February. After the healing period and all I hit the road climbing all summer and now that fall has settled in, going to the gym again and bouldering I'm finding my shoulder is constantly pissed off. The worst is if I sleep on that side it sucks for the day, but generally "shouldery" moves tend to tweek it. The pain never is depilitating and doesn't seem to go past a certain threshold, meaning I can climb all day and it will be pretty sore . It always seem to be a pain but doesn't seem to hold me back. I've been doing basic PT for it that was prescribed to be at the time of the injury which seems to help.
Question is, is there more I can be doing to make this not a chronic injury? Not climbing is out of the question. It doesn't suck that much... Thanks for any ideas l!

Dwight Jugornot · · Arvada, Co. · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 181

I had a SLAP tear (torn labrum diagnosed by MRI and shoulder surgeon).
I had a Denver doc (M.D.) do prolotherapy on it. Super painful, long needles driven deep into the shoulder whilst doc injects an irritant. Body responds to this precision damage with a huge healing response. Shoulder feels great, back on 12's. climbed moderates for a few months, never stopped climbing during my recovery but did bump down to 9's and 10's. Prolotherapy only helps soft tissue injuries like tendons, etc. There are articles out there that say it is hooey, but it worked for me and 2 other climber friends with shoulder issues.
Good luck!

Stephen Burns · · Telluride, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 25

Sounds like a rad thing, expensive?

Dwight Jugornot · · Arvada, Co. · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 181

Like $1,800 over the course of 3 visits/ 3 weeks.

Stephen Burns · · Telluride, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 25

I'd be psyched to find a more affordable approach, but all options are on the table.

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71

my A/C hurt for two years. No operation.

Drew Whitley · · Dolores, CO · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 95

I did a third degree separation 15 yrs ago went and saw Dr. Stedman of Stedman Halkins clinic in Vail. He argued on the side of NO surgery! In his opinion the fix is only cosmetic, and would cause problems later in life like arthritis, and stiffness in the joint. Today I am happy with that decision. I still have trouble sleeping on my bad side though. One thing that helps is using a small feather pillow in the armpit to support the joint. Do lots of physical therapy i.e. shoulder exercises. Yoga helps too! I remember it being about a year until I was able to do a pushup. I have spent the last 12 or so years climbing, and that seems to be the best thing for the shoulder. In the end I am glad that I did not have surgery. I have better flexibility on my bad side, and have never suffered re injury while climbing. Be patient it will get better with time....

D Condit · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 95

I separated (3rd degree) both my shoulders. One in an ice hockey "incident" and the other when I figured out my dirt-biking skills needed improvement. After each eveny it took about a year to get my climbing mojo back to full strength with no wincing pain. Another year later on each and I had no pain climbing (except the occasional odd move while ice climbing). I still get a bit sore sleeping but oh well. Anyhoo, I opted for no surgery as the doc suggested it was cosmetic and likely to just pop out again based on my life style. At least both shoulders look the same now so not so ridiculous. My best advice -- give it time.

bking7 King · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 5

I'm about a year and a half out from my 3rd degree separation, also no surgery, if you do even a basic lit review, you'll find pretty convincing evidence against going under the knife, loss of range of motion, arthritis, etc.
I was back up to full power, v7-8 and 5.12 after 8 months or so, thanks to some solid PT. There are still twinges, sleeping on it can be painful, pressing down on mantles can also feel off, but gastons and other shouldery moves are surprisingly okay, so long as I focus on footwork.
As for home pt, work on bands for rhomboids, as well as diagonal/ horizontal motions on top of the rotator cuff movements. Scap-punches or push ups plus are great antagonists. After pt and home sessions my displacement is less pronounced.
Short version it sucks, buy a parrot, you now have a perfect shoulder for it to perch on.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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