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The Grotto
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AC Devil Dog S 
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AC Devil Dog 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mike Stewart, 1991
Page Views: 5,719
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Sep 29, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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KO sending the Devil Dog - April of 2006. Slap-a-...

Open, with restrictions: private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The refrigerator-wide double arete up the largest pillar of the grotto. Feet get more friendly as you get higher, but for the first 2 bolts, you have to trust your smear.

Protection 

5 bolts to hangers either left or right of the column.You can lead an easier trad climb nearby to set up a top rope if you so desire, but put in a directional or two if you do.


Photos of AC Devil Dog Slideshow Add Photo
Alex lowering off the Dog. Not exactly an "Action Photo", but you may find it useful for route-finding.  Check out the chunky upper wall, which, when we inspected it carefully, had bail 'biners all over it - hard stuff!
Alex lowering off the Dog. Not exactly an "Action ...
A.C. Devil Dog with bolts as viewed from above the Oort Wall.  Top anchors are out of the picture either up and left, or up and right.
BETA PHOTO: A.C. Devil Dog with bolts as viewed from above the...
One of my favorite routes.  <br />
One of my favorite routes.
AC Devil Dog, about halfway up.
BETA PHOTO: AC Devil Dog, about halfway up.

Comments on AC Devil Dog Add Comment
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By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 30, 2002
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

And trust your grip, as the hands through this section consist of nothing more than the aretes, which are slightly rounded in the beginning.

Badass! Good luck finding these moves anywhere else.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Nov 25, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Area classic. Crux is probably getting to the first bolt. Surprinsgly secure moves once you get into the groove.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jan 18, 2007

great climb, very unique. I'd give it .10d just because of the opening moves. I'd advise stepping up from the left and preclipping the first bolt, then starting from the ground.
By Amy Sturgill
From: Nevada City
Jan 16, 2008

HAHA! Great fun but good luck climbing gracefully on this one!
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Apr 6, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Great route, crux (felt harder than .10c as rated in the guidebook) is definitely the opening moves. I had to get pretty creative to make it past the opening sequence, not exactly sure what I did, but I remember using about every trick in the book.

The remainder of the route is mostly easier (yet sustained) 5.10 climbing. Good rests, great friction moves, unique body movements and use of the arete earns this route 4 stars in my book.
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Apr 23, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Absolutely stellar and unique. First couple bolts are tough, easier after that. Love the rest in the handjam slot halfway up!