Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane, 1981 |
Page Views: | 876 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 4, 2007 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Not a new climb but rather, unknown and unpublished. More info would be great.
A pretty good climb that requires some focus. Start up on a set of vertical flakes, then move to the right side and up, steming and clinging with some smears up and into a good stance on the right-leaning crack and a good hold to clip the first pin (so-so soft iron). Head up past this pin for a few long moves to clip a good angle and, making crux moves along the way (perhaps 5.9) and access a better crack and better gear- this line will continue to a good ledge just below a dead tree with rotten webbing on it.
To belay, move slightly south on the ledge to the live tree with a reasonable anchor (a retired daisy-chain, set up with double-pass throughs so as to be completely self-redundant) with a locking biner. This is also the standard rap for the area.
A pretty good climb that requires some focus. Start up on a set of vertical flakes, then move to the right side and up, steming and clinging with some smears up and into a good stance on the right-leaning crack and a good hold to clip the first pin (so-so soft iron). Head up past this pin for a few long moves to clip a good angle and, making crux moves along the way (perhaps 5.9) and access a better crack and better gear- this line will continue to a good ledge just below a dead tree with rotten webbing on it.
To belay, move slightly south on the ledge to the live tree with a reasonable anchor (a retired daisy-chain, set up with double-pass throughs so as to be completely self-redundant) with a locking biner. This is also the standard rap for the area.
Location
Perhaps below the center of the massive roof at the mid-height of the wall, there are a set of older climbs, each of which follows a right-leaning crack system past 2 pins. The left of these is left of a left-facing corner to the left of a large bulge ('2 Pins Left') and the Right follows a set of parallel cracks just right of the right side of the same bulge ('2 pins Right'). Between is a right-leaning and quite overhanging system of flakes and seams, known as SILI?
Photos
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