||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA: ||David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane, 1981|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Autumn, when not closed or snowed in|
|Page Views: ||129|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 4, 2007|
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Not a new climb but rather, unknown and unpublished. More info would be great.
A pretty good climb that requires some focus. Start up on a set of vertical flakes, then move to the right side and up, steming and clinging with some smears up and into a good stance on the right-leaning crack and a good hold to clip the first pin (so-so soft iron). Head up past this pin for a few long moves to clip a good angle and, making crux moves along the way (perhaps 5.9) and access a better crack and better gear- this line will continue to a good ledge just below a dead tree with rotten webbing on it.
To belay, move slightly south on the ledge to the live tree with a reasonable anchor (a retired daisy-chain, set up with double-pass throughs so as to be completely self-redundant) with a locking biner. This is also the standard rap for the area.
Perhaps below the center of the massive roof at the mid-height of the wall, there are a set of older climbs, each of which follows a right-leaning crack system past 2 pins. The left of these is left of a left-facing corner to the left of a large bulge ('2 Pins Left') and the Right follows a set of parallel cracks just right of the right side of the same bulge ('2 pins Right
'). Between is a right-leaning and quite overhanging system of flakes and seams, known as SILI
2 fixed pins plus a standard light rack of stoppers and cams. The first pin is a stamped soft-iron, the second a good angle. The climb is a little 'heads up' but pretty safe with some attentive placements.
Belay and rap from the tree just south on the ledge.
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 29, 2008
This route is called AC-DC. FA: David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane 1981