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Abu Simbel  
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Unknown 5.7 
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Unusual Weather 
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War In The Banks 
Welcome to Shelf Road 
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Why Left 
Will Purr For Treats 
You Were Meant For Me 
Unsorted Routes:

Abu Simbel  

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: MJM & RAMM, 1/11
Page Views: 851
Submitted By: MJM on Jun 4, 2011
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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C4.

Description 

Start on low angled rock to gain C1. Go with sustained vertical climbing on crimpers and pockets to C3. At C3, move right to the big block undercling and go straight up on big holds with sustained climbing to and past C4. Lunge to a big, reachy, flat hold with a killer, hidden locker behind it at C5. Hang back then jet up and left to the hard to clip anchors.


Location 

At the Piggy Bank, this is in between Tuff Shed & The Don Show.


Protection 

5 clips to anchors.



Photos of Abu Simbel Slideshow Add Photo
Ivan approaching C1.
Ivan approaching C1.
Approaching C3.
Approaching C3.
C5 / nice on-sight.
C5 / nice on-sight.
Comments on Abu Simbel Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 5, 2011

That would be me in the first two photos. We didn't know which route this was. Now I know.

By Charles Cundiff
May 6, 2012

Like a lot of the routes in this area, the bolting job is suspect. Why put the anchors out of reach and off the line? The crux of the route is clipping the anchors.

By dancesatmoonrise
Nov 18, 2012

One of the guys today said Bob R. has this as 10c in his new guidebook. There's two harder moves on the route that would make it hard to argue against that rating. Always subjective, of course, but they did seem harder than typical 10a's for the area.

By Lauren D. Hollingsworth
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 16, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

The crux is clipping the anchors, I fully agree. The route has moves harder than what is consistent with .10a in the area, I agree. However, the movement up to the anchors is great fun!

For an even better experience, move 5 routes to the right and climb Heaven Is Waiting.