Start on low angled rock to gain C1. Go with sustained vertical climbing on crimpers and pockets to C3. At C3, move right to the big block undercling and go straight up on big holds with sustained climbing to and past C4. Lunge to a big, reachy, flat hold with a killer, hidden locker behind it at C5. Hang back then jet up and left to the hard to clip anchors.
At the Piggy Bank, this is in between Tuff Shed & The Don Show.
5 clips to anchors.
Ivan approaching C1.
C5 / nice on-sight.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 5, 2011
That would be me in the first two photos. We didn't know which route this was. Now I know.
|By Charles Cundiff|
May 6, 2012
Like a lot of the routes in this area, the bolting job is suspect. Why put the anchors out of reach and off the line? The crux of the route is clipping the anchors.
Nov 18, 2012
One of the guys today said Bob R. has this as 10c in his new guidebook. There's two harder moves on the route that would make it hard to argue against that rating. Always subjective, of course, but they did seem harder than typical 10a's for the area.
|By Lauren D. Hollingsworth|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 16, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
The crux is clipping the anchors, I fully agree. The route has moves harder than what is consistent with .10a in the area, I agree. However, the movement up to the anchors is great fun!
For an even better experience, move 5 routes to the right and climb Heaven Is Waiting.