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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Absurdland 
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Wonderland 

Absurdland 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy & George Bloom - 1960
Page Views: 5,275
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 22, 2006
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Jeff Arliss enjoying the easier upper half.
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Description 

Absurdland is a wonderful little route just right of Never Never Land, uphill from Wisecrack and Middle Earth.

Climb the obvious, short right-leaning finger and hand crack, make a step right onto the white face, then continue up the crack and face to a belay tree. It is quite a sandbag at 5.8 (it appears in several books as 5.9) and has a reputation for breaking ankles, but a #2 Camalot and a good belayer will help you negotiate the first crux, just a short distance off the deck.


Protection 

Standard Rack.



Photos of Absurdland Slideshow Add Photo
Tricia at the second crux.
Tricia at the second crux.
fun climbing
fun climbing
Darek at the early crux.
Darek at the early crux.
Seconding Absurd.
Seconding Absurd.
Darek nearing the second crux.
Darek nearing the second crux.
Nearing the end of the hard part.
Nearing the end of the hard part.
Dealing with the early crux.
Dealing with the early crux.
Start of Absurdland
Start of Absurdland
Getting in pro above the cruxes.
Getting in pro above the cruxes.
transfer out of the crux
transfer out of the crux
Comments on Absurdland Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 18, 2013
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Mar 28, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I thought this was much easier than some of the other 5.8s at the Gunks. I think Modern Times, Double Crack, Son of Easy O and Pas De Deux are all much tougher.
The gear is abundant, the climbing is super fun. I think the route is a new favorite of mine, albeit overrated at 5.8+.

By Tim Schafstall
From: Newark, DE
Apr 2, 2008

This route was formerly rated 5.9. It's not as continuous as the other routes mentioned as harder, so it seems a bit easier; however, placing the right gear at the crux is critical.

By Paul Shultz
From: Hudson, Ma
May 13, 2009

Pretty good climb.

A big tip, a gold camalot is not the best piece of gear to use the first move. Instead, stick a blue TCU in the pin scar less than 2 feet above the pocket for the gold cam.

By Gunkiemike
Oct 3, 2009

A red Alien can also be sneaked in at the bottom.

By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Nov 27, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

I don't think it's a sandbagged route. It's definitely 5.8 range with some of sustained 5.7 climbing, then ease off when getting to the top. A gold camalot works fine, you can also plug many other pieces in, but the gold is the most obvious one.

By doligo
Aug 2, 2011

The first crux is not that bad, and you can stick a #3 after your climb past the #2 to keep you off the ground fall. The second crux protects well by a 0.3 - a headier move than the first one, IMO. The rest of the climb is a cruiser.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Oct 9, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

The two hardest moves are very tough for 5.8 and it doesn't surprise me this used to be graded a 5.9

Great fun, one of the better single pitch gunks routes.

By JSH
Administrator
Oct 12, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I have a complex mathematical transformation I perform on all re-graded routes ..... aaaanyway, I still think of this as 9. As Kevin said - tougher single moves than either Pas de Deux or Son of Easy O, which are the sane comparisons.

By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Oct 23, 2011

fun climbing with a tough start.

By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Nov 10, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

definitely on par with Drunkards or Eastertime too. for me Columbia and Birdland were harder. .8 is about right.

By Alex Washburne
Nov 25, 2011

Whether or not this is sandbagged depends on your level of comfort with this style of climbing, namely, thin face climbing (think: tiny feet) with occasional insecure finger jams or tiny crimps. This is very similar in flavor to something interesting (5.7+), but I thought this was much harder (in that I came much closer to falling here than on SI). I think this was way harder than even modern times (5.8+) and about as hard as directissima because I LOVE getting pumped and HATE having my feet feel like they could pop off at any second. So, take the grade as you will, knowing that if thin face climbing is your weakness then this climb will be harder than 5.8, and if it's your strength then you'll love this climb and won't worry about the grade.

By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 9, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

One (ridiculous) guidebook even put this at 5.10-, which is absurd because I climbs this years before breaking into that grade at the Gunks.

By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Apr 26, 2013

One of my favorite routes at the gunks. Impeccable rock quality. Very well protected - you can sew this route up if you want. A gold camalot clipped short protects the first move. Regarding the grade controvery on this route, if you pull the "tricky move" the right way, it feels easy - like 5.7. If you do it the hard way, it feels like 5.9 in my opinion.

By Pawel
From: NJ
Nov 18, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Very nice route.

Don't mind sandbags but this one feels harder than Snooky's, Farewell to Arms, P1 Son of Easy O, Pas de Deaux... On par with The Spring, P3 Keep on Struttin, P1 Wasp... In sum, to each his own but in my book this one's 5.9.