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SW Face Left (Trespassers Wall)
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Abstract Roller Disco 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Gib Lewis, Charles Cole and Marius Morsted, November 1979
Page Views: 475
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Al Dude setting up to make the balancy high-step t...

Description 

Approaching Little Hunk's southwest face from the Echo Rock Area one will notice a large flake leaning against the main face, which is where this route is located.

Start off a boulder near the left arete of the flake and climb past two bolts, traverse right midway, and finish up past two more bolts and a bit of a runout to the top. Descend by rapping off anchors on a ledge atop the route. Please note - A 50 meter rope just makes it down from anchors atop a ledge.

While the rock isn't the best Josh has to offer, the moves are good and the position on the flake is unique. Overall, a seldom done but worthy route for those who like J. Tree thin face/slab routes.

Protection 

4 bolts, chain anchor (all bolts are 3/8")


Photos of Abstract Roller Disco Slideshow Add Photo
Al contemplating the crux and potential swing on A...
Al contemplating the crux and potential swing on A...
Abstract Roller Disco topo
BETA PHOTO: Abstract Roller Disco topo

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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 25, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I had all kinds of trouble getting going on this route, probably nerves.

Took a whipper just before clipping the last bolt, momentary lapse of concentration I think.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 20, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

Solid at 5.11a
By Shipp
From: laguna beach, ca
Jan 19, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

First 5.11 in early 80's. Pretty gritty at the time but solid 5.11. I remember the first bolt being a tough clip - about 12" out-of-reach.