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Shadow Buttress
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Absorption T 
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Absorption 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: James Garrett, solo, 16 April 1994
Page Views: 1,431
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Apr 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Photo by Adam Jensen

Description 

Appropriately named, Absorption starts sucking you in before you have raced across the hardpan. An easy approach lures you to its base. The rock quality is superb on the first pitch, as long as you don't venture into the salt crystals and mud deposits that reside on the left side of the dihedral. Although solid in many places, the occasional chunk of mud will dislodge when pulled on. Easy climbing builds your confidence and warms you up. Finger cracks and face moves take you higher up, where the absorption process becomes complete. Hands turn to fists as the crack begins to turn from an easy left to more vertical right. Throw in some roofs and chimneying and you are nearly enveloped. Release yourslef from the crack's grasp and escape to a great ledge just underneath a small pine growing out of the face and belay. The second pitch is only for the adventurous that dare to continue up the widening chimney above complete with offwidths and exfoliations galore.


Location 

Most apparent natural line at Ibex. You can spot it from across the Tule Hardpan. It is an obvious, right-trending crack that starts fingers and ends up a chimney. Absorption resides in the shadow of the huge overhang on Shadow Buttress and is the inside corner of the dihedral.


Protection 

Medium to large cams, a fixed nut protects a difficult sequence. There is no other permanent hardware on the first pitch. The belay consists of a bolt and chain. There is a bolt without a hanger slung with webbing and a leaver biner. The first bolt on the second pitch is easy to see from the belay.



Photos of Absorption Slideshow Add Photo
Photo by Adam Jensen
Photo by Adam Jensen
Looking down the first pitch from the belay ledge.
Looking down the first pitch from the belay ledge.
Second pitch, home to a long chimney and exfoliations galore.
BETA PHOTO: Second pitch, home to a long chimney and exfoliati...
Ben proves that there are more ways than one to climb through a crux.
Ben proves that there are more ways than one to cl...
Comments on Absorption Add Comment
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By Price
From: SLC, UT
Sep 24, 2012

Hard for 5.9. Think 5.9/desert.

A 70m rope will NOT reach the ground from the first pitch. Take 2 ropes or a tag line.

By Austin Baird
From: SLC, Utah
Feb 7, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route - I agree with Price that it's hard for 5.9. The book says to take up to a #3 and possibly an extra #3. I took two #3s and a #4 and would have appreciated a couple more big pieces.

Also, the only good protection opportunity before the crux is currently filled in by a massive nest. I couldn't get anything in and did the crux with my last decent piece (a nut) about 15 feet below me. If you have a #4 or #5, you can protect just above your head for the crux. I had a #3 that was tipped-out and worthless.

And...if you swing rappeller's right, you can get to about 8 feet off the ground with a single 70 and then it's an easy scramble down.

Get on this route.