This route is on the West Face of Der Zerkle, far right side. Boulder the unprotected direct start to the business, or more easily traverse in from the left. The hard part starts with the first clip and continues to the anchor. Some will argue that this route is 12a. No argument from me. New anchor bolts have been installed.
3 protection bolts.
|By Kaelen Willaims|
Mar 29, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Compared to Android Powerpack (just down the way on Square Rock) this thing felt waaay harder than .11d, just thought I'd encourage people to scope this thing out before assuming it would be easy (like I did, even after I'd hangdogged all the moves months ago). Also, the second bolt is in a crappy place. You either have to clip it from a heinous lieback, or just skip it.
|By kevin murphy|
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Jul 1, 2011
I thought this route was quite good. If you are in the area, check it out.
|By Dr. Evil|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2011
Placing a shoulder-length sling on the second bolt will allow you to clip it from a good hold.
|By Paul Glover|
Jun 24, 2012
With fresh fingers, the second clip is fine off a crimp. To improve the value of this tiny "pitch", do the V1 boulder problem up to it. With or without the V1, I call it 12a.
|By George Bracksieck|
Jun 19, 2013
The first bolt is loose and should be replaced with a half-incher, because it will get a lot of action, high above the deck.