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Absolutely Billy 
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R.I.P. 
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Stem Meister 
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Absolutely Billy 

5.10a

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Consensus: 5.10b/c [details]
FA: Petch
New Route: Yes
Submitted By: caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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There is a low first bolt, but you will need to pl...

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Description 

This new (2006) face route on Main Wall is excellent! Climb up to a bolt, up left into a flake which can be protected with #1 or #.75 Camalots, past another bolt to another flake which takes good cams as well. Then, another 5 or so bolts to the anchor. Rap off with a 60m rope. Lowering will kill your rope on this one.


Location 

50' left of Arctic Breeze on main ledge. Probably about 50' right of Stem Meister.


Protection 

Bolts, an assortment of cams. (I used yellow Alien, #1 and #2 Camalots...)



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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 18, 2007

Did this one again today. Fantastic route, slightly overhanging in some sections, with biggish positive dikes.

This one will be harder for some shorter folks, I really had to stretch to make a move, at 5'10".

Definitely worth doing on a main ledge cragging day, or if you're waiting in line for corrugation.

By Schoney
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 1, 2008
rating: 5.10d PG13

As of the summer 08 this rt goes to the top of the wall @ .10d (maybe pg) I did most of the rt, but got off rt after about 4 pitches.

By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Nov 11, 2008

Actually this route went to the top shortly after it was first put up in 06. Short .10d section but mostly much easier (dirty) climbing.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 10, 2010

A must-do if you are climbing on Main Wall and not just gunning for the Corner classics.