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 ADVANCED
Rock Hudson
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absolute Zero T 
Gem Nabors T 
Hot Rocks T 
Ipecac T 
Looney Tunes T 
Nereltne T 
Stand and Deliver (aka Spanish Bombs) T 

Absolute Zero 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: David Rubine, Don Mealing, Michael Wells 3/80
Page Views: 440
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 22, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: "Absolute Zero" and TR variation. Photo ...

Description 

This climb is the left-most line of bolts on Rock Hudson's E Face. This line is left of Looney Tunes and Right of the Start of Nerelente. Climb up a steepening slab on prgressively harder moves to reach a disgustingly thin crux stepping left up onto a lower angle slab. From there you can proceed to climb up the Left facing corner above (hand-to-fist gear or just run it out) or up the face to the left (crumbling, TR it) either of which is OK.

The crux move felt like 5.11a to me (harder than The Vampire (10d) or British Airways (11a), more like Buford's House Of Liver (11a) Then again I am not a good friction climber. This also felt harder than Hot Rocks (11c)... but that's another story.

Protection 

3 bolts, gear to 3" for anchors


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By Randy
Jan 9, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Harder than The Vampire or British Airways (or Hot Rocks)!! Maybe new shoes are in order. FA: was David Rubine, Don MEaling & Michael Wells, March, 1980.
By Josh Beck
Jan 9, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Definitely much easier than the similar move on The Vampire and nothing like Hot Rocks. 1 star of 5 at best though. Not a complete bomb but neither very memorable or recommendable IMO.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 9, 2004

Like I said, I'm no J-tree friction expert...but I got The Vampire on lead, and I'm measuring difficulty based on my falling off of it. I was climbing in a pair of shoes I refer to as my "bunny slippers" but that's how I did all the routes mentioned, and I fell off of this one... On TR!
By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 4, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Decent climbing with good protection. The bolts have been replaced and are 3/8".
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I felt that the grade was correct at 10c, via the lead. TB must have gotten off route a bit...
By Kevin Mokracek
From: Burbank
Mar 1, 2013

I started to get back into climbing again this past year after a 10 year "break", having kids will do that I guess. I saw Absolute Zero last week while I was out there for the day and jumped on it and was pleasantly surprised to fire it first try, stuck a purple Totem Cam in the crack before the last bolt giving me a little extra courage. This was a good example of JT slab climbing.