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 ADVANCED
ABC Ramps
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Absent Without Leave 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Kane Schutzman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 663
Submitted By: DanM on Oct 25, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Shown in Yellow with the Direct Start in Blue

Description 

After you clip the first bolt, transfer to the face. Head up the crimpy face with a nut at the ready (if there's one fixed, DONT TAKE IT) or be prepared for quite a fall. This climb has great moves on a pretty face and some big but safe fall potential (assuming you don't have the stopper). Definitely one of the more asthetic climbs at Harpers!

Direct Start Project: With the first bolt clipped, begin on the ledge and fire straight up through a hard boulder problem.

Location 

Climb A ramp (second from the right) to the base of the highest orange face (just below a loose gully). Using a ledge on the right corner of the face, traverse onto the face to start.

Protection 

4 bolts to a sling anchor on the tomentosa tree. It's also possible to place a great #5BD stopper between the 3rd and 4th bolt(for a shorter fall).


Photos of Absent Without Leave Slideshow Add Photo
Approach Pitch, Standard route, and Direct Start S...
Approach Pitch, Standard route, and Direct Start S...
Kane Schutzman on AWOL.  Photo credit: Karl Kraus
Kane Schutzman on AWOL. Photo credit: Karl Kraus

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