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 ADVANCED
Salt Lake Slips
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abracadabra T 
Chalking Dead T,TR 
Double Tap S 
Entre Nous S 
Forgotten Ambition T 
Goth Girls S 
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 
Italian Arete S 
Maudlin S 
Nosferatu S 
Roll the Bones S 
Salem's Lot S,TR 
Senseless Banter T 
Thieving Magpie S 
Witchhunt S 
Wop Dego T 
Zombieland T 

Abracadabra 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,554
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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easy as pie

Description 

Short little chimney on the right edge of the South face. It then climbs a finger crack around the corner. Enjoyable as chimneys go, only too short.

Protection 

Standard rack, no fixed gear.


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By john richards
From: salt lake city UT
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

avoid this route. horrible rope drag and a dumb walk over to the rap rings not worth it
By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Sep 29, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

i wish the chimney were bigger, as it's the funnest part. good route for trad noobs. rope drag is cured with a high first placement. i used a camalot #2. There is however a nosey tree halfway up. and a slightly undesirable traverse to the chains. still worth it.
By Mark Goodro
From: Puget Sound, Washington
Aug 20, 2009

I think this is an undeservedly overlooked route. It's not a bad climb, the chimney is fun, the finger crack is short but interesting. It's a good TR if you build an anchor at the top - large gear is helpful there, up to a #5 Camalot. It sounds like the main complaint is the traverse over to the other anchor for descent - which I heartily agree does suck. I think it might be worth adding a bolted anchor at the top of this one - if for no other reason than to preserve the safety of the climbers below. It would be horrifyingly easy to knock large rocks down onto climbers on Salem's Lot and Witch Hunt if you choose to rap from the Witch Hunt anchor. A walk-off to the top of the Slips gully isn't fun either.
By A Hoffman
Jul 10, 2014

This route was actually pretty fun, my second trad lead. I climbed up and traversed over to the anchors for 'goth girl' As stated, the traverse is awkward and made me nervous. It would be a real fun beginner trad route if it had it's own set of anchors.

Also, as someone stated above, rope drag can be avoided by a high first placement and can be further avoided with a piece to redirect just above the chimney section.