|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||Ben Folsom, August 21, 2008|
|Submitted By:||Ben Folsom on Aug 22, 2008|
|Comments on Above the Hearth||Add Comment|
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By Ben Folsom
Aug 22, 2008
On the first ascent, I placed a 3.5 camalot (a .5 will work in the same spot), a #2 camalot, and a .4 camalot in a funky placement near the top. The bolts were drilled by hand due to the "wilderness area" regulations. Even though the whole time I was drilling I could hear someone firing an automatic weapon at the gun club. The anchor is 1 bolt with chain and a fixed knifeblade. This route turned out to be of higher quality than I originally thought it would be. I would have given it more stars except for the approach, which is short but kind of sucks.
A #2 camalot sized camming device is pretty crucial to protect the mantle onto the face.
Many thanks to Maura for the belay!!
By Dave Budge
From: South Slope of the Hindu Kush
May 17, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Definitely the best route on the Duomo! Above the Hearth links a nice chunk of continuously difficult climbing. It was cool to see Lance get the second ascent, but we realized that 5.10+ may be a bit (unintentionally) sandbagged. Ben was climbing really well last year, making it hard to tell the difference between 5.11+ and 5.10+. A proud send by both Ben and Lance.
A few long slings help minimize drag at the bottom.