AKA: Another Jay Goodwin Route. A route with another censored name in Bingham's guide, is a fun mix of climbing. It starts with some fun face climbing to the lone bolt. From here you get to a stance below the roof, plug your gear, and pull the roof (crux) as you see fit. Insecure finger jams greet your attempt though. The climbing stays fun and insecure through the next steep section. As the fin on the left narrows the holds get bigger and bigger, but the steepness stays with you. A great route with sustained climbing makes this route well worth it.
Right of the bolted line Sex Drugs and Rock & Roll, which is the first bolted line right of Preteen Sex.
1 bolt, and the smallest of aliens will protect the lower face. A yellow Metolius, is what probably worked the best pulling the roof. I also had a small cam below the roof with a runner. Above the roof the protection needed is pretty standard, although somestimes a little tricky due to some flaring of the crack. A step right to the chains above Estrogen Imbalance, make for an easy exit. Although you will miss the last 10-15 feet of climbing, which is probably a fair trade off.
BETA PHOTO: Abortions on Parade
BETA PHOTO: w/o lines.
Notice Rob at the base trying to figure...
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 25, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
must be solid on runout easy climbing. crux is more mental than phyiscal. great long route.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Sep 4, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enjoyable route. Protects well. One set of cams from TCU to #3 camalot and nuts would probably suffice for most people, as there are plenty of opportunities for nuts. Crux is very well protected by small nuts.
|By Michael Buchanan|
Jul 22, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dot think the route was runout very much. Crux is fun and well protected. Can fire in a pink tricam below roof and a orange TCU above bulge. Climbing get easier after initial crux. When I did it, there were cob webs in the crack... There are anchors to the climbers left above the 11a sport climb.