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Decadent Wall
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Abortions on Parade 
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Preteen Sex 
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Abortions on Parade 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jay Goodwin, Bill Boyle 1980's
Page Views: 3,814
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 5, 2006
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pulling the crux, two good finger locks going in t...

Description 

AKA: Another Jay Goodwin Route. A route with another censored name in Bingham's guide, is a fun mix of climbing. It starts with some fun face climbing to the lone bolt. From here you get to a stance below the roof, plug your gear, and pull the roof (crux) as you see fit. Insecure finger jams greet your attempt though. The climbing stays fun and insecure through the next steep section. As the fin on the left narrows the holds get bigger and bigger, but the steepness stays with you. A great route with sustained climbing makes this route well worth it.


Location 

Right of the bolted line Sex Drugs and Rock & Roll, which is the first bolted line right of Preteen Sex.


Protection 

1 bolt, and the smallest of aliens will protect the lower face. A yellow Metolius, is what probably worked the best pulling the roof. I also had a small cam below the roof with a runner. Above the roof the protection needed is pretty standard, although somestimes a little tricky due to some flaring of the crack. A step right to the chains above Estrogen Imbalance, make for an easy exit. Although you will miss the last 10-15 feet of climbing, which is probably a fair trade off.



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Abortions on Parade
BETA PHOTO: Abortions on Parade
w/o lines. <br />Notice Rob at the base trying to figure out how to trick me into leading this route.
BETA PHOTO: w/o lines.
Notice Rob at the base trying to figure...
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By Wavey
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 25, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

must be solid on runout easy climbing. crux is more mental than phyiscal. great long route.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Sep 4, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Enjoyable route. Protects well. One set of cams from TCU to #3 camalot and nuts would probably suffice for most people, as there are plenty of opportunities for nuts. Crux is very well protected by small nuts.

By Michael Buchanan
Jul 22, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Dot think the route was runout very much. Crux is fun and well protected. Can fire in a pink tricam below roof and a orange TCU above bulge. Climbing get easier after initial crux. When I did it, there were cob webs in the crack... There are anchors to the climbers left above the 11a sport climb.