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The start is the crux and is harder for shorter folks. Studiously avoid the holds on the left corner. One may find it necessary to use holds near the left corner, and which point a decision must be made: Can I use this hold and still look myself in the mirror?
After the initial wall is passed the climb transforms into an enjoyable tour of moderate, exposed quartzite.
ABM is immediately to the left to Beginners Demise. You will recognize a blank wall with a hard-looking start.
Toprope or solo.
|By James M Schroeder|
From: Sauk County, WI
Nov 30, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
This route is absolutely height/ape index dependent. My 6'3" frame, along with my +6" ape index found this to be easier than 11a. At least it felt easier than routes like Black Rib(11a) and even Flake Route(10d).
|By Paul Campbell|
From: Sussex, WI
Nov 23, 2009
The crux on ABM is right off the ground, and is harder for short people because they can't reach the good crimp for the first move.
However, I felt the route was pretty sustained at 5.11a and had a few hardish cruxes above. It felt way more technical then a climb such as Beginner's Demise to the right.