Aberration 5.12- R
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | Jeremy Freeman - April 2010 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Adam Winters on Apr 16, 2010 |
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'Aberration' 5.12 R
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Description This takes the direct line under 'Sendero Luminoso' and shares the same anchor. Start on the unprotected ramp as for 'Sendero Luminoso' (R, but easy) to the ledge/stance. Climb just left of the crack to the high first bolt (5.7) past jugs and slopers to the cleaner wall above. Bust through multiple cruxes to essential rests on good jugs. Clip the last bolt up high and left from a mail-slot jug and traverse left towards the arete using pockets and edges. Use the arete and pockets just to the right to make a few moves to the anchor (same as 'Sendero Luminoso).
Location Right side of Solarium, just to the right of 'Sendero Luminoso', same anchor
Protection 8 bolts to Mussy hooks
By Adam Winters Administrator From: the Shire May 9, 2010
| somebody try this. we'd love a consensus |
By Tom Helvie From: Bishop, CA May 18, 2010 rating: 5.12a R
| Nice job, guys, thats a good new route. Lots of tricky/hard to figure out moves with so-so rests in between. As far as a rating I would tend to say 12a, however, I did it onsight and was really pumped and most likely didn't use the easiest/best beta for some of those moves. I know for sure that I clipped from the wrong hold several times, finding the right hold one move later. I certainly can't see it being anything less than 11d. (I don't really know the difference between 11d and 12a. 11d usually feels like 12a without the glory) I found the hardest crux to be the slight traverse left with some small crimps, the undercling press hold and finally a decent pocket and edge out left. Nice work bolting it, also. Note: Be careful. It's easy but a bit scary getting to the high first bolt due to crunchy rock. |
By Adam Winters Administrator From: the Shire May 19, 2010
| Nice onsight, Tom! thanks for you input. the original thought was to leave a high first bolt so people climbing Sendero wouldn't get sucked into it. we thought a bolt could be added later if there was a consensus. |
By jeremy freeman Feb 16, 2012 rating: 5.11d
| Please dont add any more bolts. I was trying to avoid confusing people who were climbing the long established sendero. That was my reason to running it out a bit on the easy section. There is the option of bringing cams, a 1 or 2" cammalot is perfect in the crack to the climbers right, so it is prtoectable and entirely reasonable to leave it as is. However, if this is going to be a growing problem im not opposed to adding another bolt, I just dont want to lure 5.10 climbers on to a 5.12. If need be we will consult the higher powers i.e. first ascensionist, Marty or who ever else has an oppinion. Thanks |
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