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Abbot Arete 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Lawrence Stuemke, 1995
Page Views: 3,795
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Jun 2, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07...

Description 

This route is right of Wes Bound on the arete just uphill from Table Wine and the entrance to the Inner Sanctum. Typical Outer Gates slab/face climbing on crystals, with a steeper 2-3 bolt crux. Escape left to the anchors of Wes Bound after 9 bolts and bring up your second to rap with one rope, or continue to the routes own anchors and a 2-rope rappel.

Protection 

11 bolts plus anchors.


Photos of Abbot Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Christa Cline on Abbot Arete.  Photo by Jason Shatek.
Christa Cline on Abbot Arete. Photo by Jason Shat...
Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07.
Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07...
Someone following Abbot Arete. Photo taken from the Monastic Groove ledge.
Someone following Abbot Arete. Photo taken from th...
Steve Marr working up Abbot's Arete
Steve Marr working up Abbot's Arete
Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07.
Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07...
Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07.
Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07...
Allen loving it on this challenging 5.7.
Allen loving it on this challenging 5.7.
Sean Mac on Abbot Arete. <a href='http://www.visionsofcontrast.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >visionsofcontrast.com</a>
Sean Mac on Abbot Arete. visionsofcontrast.com
Photo of Abbot's Arrete showing most of the route.
BETA PHOTO: Photo of Abbot's Arrete showing most of the route.

Comments on Abbot Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve Marr
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 5, 2002

This route is every bit as good as No Mystery Here, if not better. The bolts were thoughtfully placed (but not always comfortably placed). The crux starts around the 6th or 7th bolt where the route steepens. There is a very positive right-facing flake with bomber holds. Once over the flake there are a couple options like Dave pointed out. The first is to clip into Wes Bound's anchors and then rap. The second is to continue straight up past two more bolts to Abbot's anchors. There is a long run out between the 9th and 10th bolts with pretty straight forward climbing. You could probably clip the right bolt on the Wes Bound anchor with a long sling if you wanted. Stellar route with fantastic views.
By Mike Epke
From: Denver, CO
Jun 28, 2003

You can actually rap from this route with two one rope rappels by going to the rap station for Southern Hospitality. Fun route that was definitely stiffer climbing than the two 5.7s down the hill. Enjoy this excellent, long climb.
By joell
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 4, 2004

You can also rap from the Abbot Arete anchors with a single 60 meter rope if you go down to the large flake that Southern Hospitality begins from. If you choose to use the Wes Bound anchors, you can actually be lowered on belay if you descend into the Inner Sanctum along Wes Bound. A 60 meter rope will reach from the base of Abbott Arete to the Wes Bound anchors and down to the base of Wes Bound with plenty to spare.
By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

A really fun 5.7.
By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Aug 3, 2009

FA: Lawrence Stuemke, 1995

Lowering from the anchors at the top of Wes Bound is definitely the preferred method as the climbing from there to the top is uneventful and of lower quality.