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Shady Side Left
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abbey S 
Bandit S 
Big Bad Love (a.k.a. Bill) S 
Budro S 
Butch S 
Doug S 
George S 
Jerk Off S 
Jorge CantstaƱa S 
Julie S 
Mulva de la Doloris S 
Oktoberfest S 
Pipsqueak S 
Rebecca S 
Scott S 
Scottie Pippen  S 
Volver de La Belle Epoque S 


YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 505
Submitted By: WAGbag on Nov 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Compared to Scott it has a harder crux move.

Start with a right sidepull and tricky feet to get the not-so-great hold below the first bolt or move slightly right to use an undercling start. Either way you'll want to have your right hand out of the way of the rope as you throw for the next hold getting to the second bolt. From here take your rests as you get them since the sequence of sloper-highstep-lockoff-reach moves can pump you out at the top. Clip with the anchors at your chest for the best holds.


see area overview.


bolts to anchors.

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By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Sep 20, 2010

Low crux. More sustained than Scott, but easier moves all together.

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