Several crags are next to each other and accessed along the same trail. Their south-facing, yet lightly wooded character makes them ideal for cooler temps during fall, winter, and spring. The climbing is characterized as moderate to difficult on pockets and edges. The easiest route here is a UIAA 6 (5.9), and there are 13 routes which are easier than 5.11. There are 7 5.11s, 8 5.12s, and 7 5.13s, two of which are potential 5.14s.
Get to Waischenfeld and drive north to Nankendorf. While in Nankendorf (shortly before leaving it), there is a road off to the left with a yellow sign pointing in that direction indicating it as Aalkorb. If you turn down this road, continue driving VERY SLOWLY through the little town until you see the little parking area with a sign with a circle on it and "Liebe Kletterer" at the top. You can park here, but you really shouldn't. Others do, but see the translation of the sign in one of the below pictures. If you missed the turn, no worries. Continue 500m until you see a turn-off on your right where you can park the car. This is the preferred parking area, and if the one described above is full, you can come up here to park. From this parking lot, cross the road and the field to cross the bridge. Walk to the right to get to the sign mentioned above with the circle on it. From here, continue walking down this road for about 400m to get to the crag of your choice.
Very fun route with a continuous change-up of style. Climb up big holds to clip the first bolt, then balance out onto the shallow 2 finger pockets to get up to the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Snatch the big pocket to clip the 4th bolt, and work through some good holds up to tiny ones again at the 5th bolt. Balance up into the jug and haul up to a good no-hands rest at the 6th bolt. Haul up the jugs past the 7th bolt and navigate your way through the maze of good and not-so-good holds to reach the top. Wo...[more]Browse More Classics in International