||Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 50'
|Consensus: ||A2 [details]|
|Page Views: ||556|
|Submitted By: ||Barrett Cooper on Aug 7, 2002|
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BETA PHOTO: Southeast face.
Going straight out of the center of the alcove (see Alcove 5.9 Route for directions) is 15 feet of A2 thin overhanging crack climbing. Aid up the crack and clear the lip of the alcove onto 5.9 hand crack. From there it is straight up parallel the other crack climbs out of the alcove to the top of the southeast face.
We climbed the 5.9 crack above the alcove and it was typical quality Parachute rock. The A2 section we were not prepared for and it looked like it would be pretty despite its crack size and short distance. But everything looks different when inspected on toprope. Plan accordingly.
Listed as A2 in my guide book. 15 feet of slightly overhanging fingernail crack. Up to #2 Camalot for the 5.9 crack above the alcove.
By Jason Haas
Jul 22, 2012
This is not a route. At the very base, it is only three feet from True Religion and only about two feet from where you'd start placing gear. And why would you climb this seam? There's a freaking finger/off-finger crack with bomber gear in arm's reach! Plus when you layback the start of True Relgion, your shoulder is on this "aid" line. And once over the lip after 15ft, they climb the same stone to the top. This is a terribly contrived way to climb True Religion.