A Woman Scorned
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This route, named after a tragic and infamous arsonist, takes the blankest-looking section of the wall just right of the chimney/crack and the obvious flake on the left end of the wall. Solve the hardest moves off the deck up this superb shield of rock (11c) that gradually gets easier as you move up. Take a breather on the low-angle shelf, then blast up the improbable prow with more excellent climbing (10c) to the anchors.
This route has two outstanding sections of climbing with cool edges, flakes, and the ubiquitous DHN (Devil's Head Nipple). It might deserve four stars except for the moderate middle section.
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
This is a very good little route that is surprisingly easy and would make a good first 11 as the crux is brief, you are fresh, and your belayer can keep a good eye on you. I was shocked by how easy it was, not remotely close to 11c. A more realistic example of 11c slab would be that heinous one over at the Headstone, not too far left of Rock Nazi IIRC. Now THAT is more like 11c slab.
The friction on this rock is superb, it really grabs your toes and fingers.