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Crazy Horse Buttress
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A Wild Ride on a Crazy Horse 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a [details]
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Page Views: 886
Submitted By: Thailand Climbing on Mar 21, 2011
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Climbing on the hardest route at Crazy Horse
Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The hardest climb at Crazy Horse. Take the line immediately to the left of the ladder access rungs to the archway. The first 4 bolts go at around 5.11 climbing. From the 4th bolt the route is equipped with insitu quick-draws. The climbing gets increasingly hard and insecure with each bolt. Before maxing out with the 5.13c crux mantle as the last move before the anchors. A series of insecure slopers, tiny side pulls and downright tenuous moves comprise the bulk of the hard climbing. Has only seen a handful of ascents.


Location 

At the top of the belay terraces and just to the left of the access ladder to the archway. Easy to spot, it's the only climb with pre-hung quickdraws


Protection 

7 bolts, insitu draws



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By Nick Sullens
From: Hong Kong, Hong Kong
Aug 6, 2013

Getting to the fixed draws is definitely harder than 5.11. Don't get suckered into thinking it is easy. There is a hard move off of a tiny crimp to an okay sloper where you clip the bolt directly below the roof.