|Crazy Horse Buttress
|Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>|
The hardest climb at Crazy Horse. Take the line immediately to the left of the ladder access rungs to the archway. The first 4 bolts go at around 5.11 climbing. From the 4th bolt the route is equipped with insitu quick-draws. The climbing gets increasingly hard and insecure with each bolt. Before maxing out with the 5.13c crux mantle as the last move before the anchors. A series of insecure slopers, tiny side pulls and downright tenuous moves comprise the bulk of the hard climbing. Has only seen a handful of ascents.
At the top of the belay terraces and just to the left of the access ladder to the archway. Easy to spot, it's the only climb with pre-hung quickdraws
7 bolts, insitu draws
|By Nick Sullens|
From: Hong Kong, Hong Kong
Aug 6, 2013
Getting to the fixed draws is definitely harder than 5.11. Don't get suckered into thinking it is easy. There is a hard move off of a tiny crimp to an okay sloper where you clip the bolt directly below the roof.