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(u) Red Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 
Amphetamine Grip T 
Animal Farm S 
Bay of Pigs S 
Bill's Flake T 
Breakdown in Paradise S 
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 
Commie Pinkos S 
Dances with Clams S 
Dirty Pinkos S 
Finger Puppet S 
Fingers of Fate T 
Flex T 
Gulag Archipelago S 
I Almost Died T 
Lets Face It S 
Moscow T 
Orgasmophoria S 
Papillion S 
Peking T 
Phantasmagoria S 
Pop Art S 
Ride The Lightning S 
Sole Survivor S 
Straight Outta' Peking S 
Super Slab T 
Titanium Jag T 

A Stroke of Brilliance 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Brooke Sandahl and Doug Phillips 1995
Page Views: 227
Submitted By: Chris D on Sep 10, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Luis below Stroke of Brilliance. The route starts...

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>


Described in Alan Watts' second edition guide for Smith as 5.7 and "an enjoyable sport route" that includes the hardest climbing "right off the starting ledge with a short, bolted crack," this route is definitely not 5.7.

Please PM me with information about this climb if you have it to add, or put it in the comments below and I'll add it. I only know about the first 15 feet, which is an overhanging crack. There are no bolts. The first bolt is after you've finished the crack, which none of the 5.8 climbers in our group could do on the day we tried it.

The climbing above the crack eases off and follows a bolt line to the left of the money pitch of Super Slab.


Climb the first pitch of Super Slab. Instead of following the buckets that are P2 of Super Slab, scramble and descend left on an easy third class ledge to a dirty landing and start up the unmistakable and attractive overhanging crack.


Bolts above the crack. Gear to 3 inches for the crack. The guidebook describes the crack as bolted, but it is not. Protects well with cams.

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