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 ADVANCED
The Sno-Cone Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Stirring of Air S 
Achilles S 
Air Patrol S 
Brenna S 
Doctor's Orders S 
Dry Doctor (aka Buzzworm) S 
Duck A Day S 
Durban Poison S 
Fluff Boy S 
Lever Action (not Downdraft) S 
Mariscos Lambada (aka Gook-a-nook?) S 
No Risk No Fin S 
Peaceful Revolution S 
Pistola S 
Pump Action S 
Rehab S 
Straight Man S 
Suck It and See S 
Wedding Streak S 
Winter's End S 

A Stirring of Air 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Bissel
Page Views: 988
Submitted By: Hank Fisher on Jul 5, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Description 

The route starts just to the right of Mariscos Lambada directly over a block at the base of the cliff. The crux of this climb is definitely at the start. This makes getting to the second bolt a mental challenge because of the almost certain fall onto the block if missed. The bolt spacing on the route is not for the faint of heart, but if you are going to climb at Rifle....

Protection 

7 bolts to a two bolt anchor.


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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 3, 2003

How come I only found 6 bolts? Hence the scarry run out to the anchors.
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 14, 2004

The rap anchors need to be replaced on this route. Just as difficult as the .10c to the right?
By Josh Beck
Jul 17, 2006

Looks like at least one hold has broken off low, making this significantly harder - definitely harder than the 10c to the right.
By nate post
Apr 20, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This was the hardest 5.9 I have ever done. I almost didn't get the on-sight, and I can usually on sight 5.11a. But this was also my first time climbing in Rifle, so I expected it to be hard but Holy sandbag Batman. The following day I did a handful of 5.10s that I thought where a lot easier.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jun 26, 2012

All of the lead bolts and the anchor bolts were replaced on this last year with hardware from the ASCA. Several bolts were moved to make this a much better lead. Enjoy!

Also, the name should be "A Stirring of Air" with two r's, not one.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jun 26, 2012

I think the start is the crux on this thing for sure, and there are at least three ways to start this thing. Two different ways at the top of the block and the third way is to start on Brenna, clip the first bolt, and traverse right. I think this is the easiest, and most enjoyable, way to do this climb and makes it more like a real 10a instead of hard 10a or whatever people want to call it.
By Mike Humphries
From: Arvada, CO
Jul 7, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Perhaps I was climbing this thing wrong, but I found the start to be quite hard. I had to bear down hard on a small, incut crimp to get established above the roof on poor, sloping, and polished feet. Tough for easy 5.10, that move alone the way I did it is easily 5.11.
By davedad
From: Carbondale, CO
Jul 9, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Mike,
You did not miss anything. The start of that thing is polished, hard, and heinous. I have studiously avoided it now that Mike Schneiter added the much better Air Patrol start. Do the awesome lefthand start to this and leave the glassy sandbag for someone else.