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3-move arete (aka Nice Moves) 
A Steve Edwards Project 
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A Steve Edwards Project 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,545
Submitted By: Rob Riggleman on Apr 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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BETA PHOTO: Steve Edwards' project goes up the face just left ...

Description 

Starting with a small left-hand crimp and a good side-pull just left of the arete, imagine a way up the blank-looking face.


Location 

East-facing problem on one of the smaller boulders in this bunch.


Protection 

Pad



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 24, 2014
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
May 2, 2010
rating: V3-4 6A+

Maybe it's V5 if you do it totally static and aren't too tall or have big fingers. The first few moves are tough, but doable for the average sized person and are around V3 possibly. There are 4 sloped crimpers, and some thin footholds that constitute the lower portion of the route I am referring to. Getting above that for the topout is significantly harder. I just dynoed it, which is probably not V5, although is still difficult in its own right. I just don't feel right saying it was V5... If I can ever figure out how to do it static, maybe using the right starting handhold as a heelhook or something, then I'll call it V5. Definitely harder than V2 and easier than V6. I wish more SB climbers would post on MP to get some consensus ratings...

By Nick Sullens
From: Yosemite/ Bend
May 3, 2010
rating: V4 6B

It's pretty soft for a 5, I'd say maybe a four, maybe a 3.

By Mattirvine
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 12, 2010

It is v5 for sure!

By Bob Banks
Aug 5, 2010

I was out here a few days ago for the first time in ages. The starting feet on this problem used to be terrible (just getting established on the face was difficult), now the feet are basically huge. WAY easier than it used to be. V3 tops.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 9, 2010

For some reason, this problem engenders more conflict and controversy about grades than any other problem in the area. I'm not really sure why. Now that I think about it, Sunset Blvd has a bevy of mis-graded problems, like Call Me (already pointed out by Bob). Either way, it's fun, but not mind-blowing.

By Nick Sullens
From: Yosemite/ Bend
Jan 10, 2011
rating: V4 6B

Besides the first move pulling up off the ground, it's really not that bad, I'd say about the same difficulty as Panic in the Streets or Shaken Not Stirred, hence why its more like a v3. Regardless, it's a fun problem.

By Nick Sullens
From: Yosemite/ Bend
Jan 11, 2011
rating: V4 6B

Did you try the right heel hook on the arete to gain the ledge? That's the ticket for me

By JKay
Jan 12, 2011
rating: V3 6A

Another victim of brush abuse :/ I agree with the V3 suggestions.

By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Aug 27, 2011
rating: V3-4 6A+

Those starting crimps are feeling awefully thin as of late...

By JakeOlsen
May 1, 2012

I think its more of a 4. I can usually finish 3s pretty easily but this one gave me a bit of trouble. Maybe my beta was bad but i would definitely put it a grade above Charlottes Web, panic in the streets, and almost all other 3s in the sb area.

By Nick Sullens
From: Yosemite/ Bend
May 8, 2012
rating: V4 6B

I take back my previous comments, I either don't remember how I used to do it or something has changed but this thing definitely feels harder than it used to. More like a 4.

By Kelly Lindsay
Apr 29, 2013
rating: V3 6A

This used to be a really great problem, but it seems to have been altered over the years. The first move used to be really tough, but somebody decided to make it easier by adding a foothold.

By Tim King
May 3, 2013
rating: V5 6C

Do you guys do this starting from the small left hand crimp near head height, or the super low undercling for the left near shin height? This 'version' seems to line up well with the 5s, but maybe I'm doing it wrong.

By Jeffrey OBrien
Mar 24, 2014
rating: V4 6B

I just got on this and sent it today. I'd say v4 starting low and v3 starting higher. It's reach dependent to reach the slopers up top. Fun problem though at any grade.