Once a very serious lead, this rowdy pitch was cleaned post FA, and I am sure it has made for better climbing. The route starts below a small overhang with an undercling in it about 15 or so feet right of E. Climb up through overhang and out onto good edges to the seam. Follow the seam up a bit and you hit the crux. A powerful off balance layaway will hopefully get you up enough to fit your tips into a bottleneck jam- Follow the ever growing seam/crack as it widends to fingers and ends eventually with 15 feet of handjams and laybacking to large ledge.
North Anex, right of Ecclesiastes.
Single set from .3" to #2 Camalot, two #3 camalots, wires.
By JJ Schlick Administrator From: Flagstaff, AZ Aug 2, 2008
I think it should be noted that this route has been cleaned since the first ascent, and got easier in all respects...
By randy baum From: Minneapolis, MN Sep 20, 2009 rating: 5.12b/c7b+27IX-27E6 6b PG13
i did not climb this route before it was cleaned, but i can say that it is definitely not 12b/c PG13. it's more like 11c.
regardless of the grading, it's a fun route. the crux moves are similar to -- albeit easier than -- those on mr. lean.
for gear, i'd recommend: two #3 camalots (one as first piece, which is about 15 ft up; the other for the upper 5.9 section), and singles from purple TCU to #2 camalot. nuts if you want; i didn't place any.
be wary of rock about half-way up bottom section (section before the ledge). there's a couple loose flakes in there.