A simple question that helped my wife break back into leading
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I wrote this article about an experience I had while climbing with my wife, who is trying to break back into leading after a few years off. |
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Not a good tactic on a 5.8, IMHO... |
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hey, whatever works for her! I am gonna try this trick too on my boyfriend haha! shhhhh i didi not say THAT... |
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There's a video of someone leading some insane runout, and he just keeps repeating "I'm on top rope if I fall" and inched his way up to send it. |
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Meme Guy wrote:There's a video of someone leading some insane runout, and he just keeps repeating "I'm on top rope if I fall" and inched his way up to send it.
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hmmm, an alternative to screaming beta repeatedly |
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Don, |
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I think it's a great idea to imagine yourself on top rope. For me, being afraid of a fall is more of the anticipation than the fall itself. If It's a safe fall, why not push yourself and imagine you're on top rope. Pete Whittaker is definitely one of my favorite climbers for his guts with this. |
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John Byrnes wrote: To the Naysayers, If someone can't push their mental limits on a route two-number-grades below their top-rope abilities, with a bolt at their waist, a clean fall and an exceptional belayer, where exactly would you approve?I did not get that information from the article - maybe the OP could specify that in his blog, so people don't take his advice as one-size-fits-all? There are just not that many safely-bolted good 5.8s out there... |
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This shit works! I was onsight free soloing a route and got scared at the crux. I thought "what would I do on top rope?" and dynoed for an unknown hold. It worked! Now whenever I'm in danger I just assume I'm on tr. |
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The question definitely helped in Don's case, so might work well for others. |