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 ADVANCED
Lookout Point
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Group of Mysteries of Frenchwoman T 
A Hatch T 
A Ship Called Black Rock T 
An Act of Strange Boar T 
Baby Tapir T,S 
Below Lissen T,S 
Bobcat Cringe T 
Bowling to Biscuits T 
He is Truly a Great Airplane T 
House of the 7th Bobcat T 
Law and Order T 
Peanuts To Serve You T 
Purple Kool-Aid T 
Rice Krispies T 
Solitude T 

A Ship Called Black Rock 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Derek Pearson, Jon Nelson, July 10, 2012
Page Views: 1,610
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Jul 11, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Derek Pearson at the top of A Ship Called Black Ro...

Description 

This is the third pitch of An act of strange boar, a group of mysteries of frenchwoman, a ship called black rock, and a hatch. (But it also makes a great alternative 2nd pitch to Law and Order.)

Start in the short hand/layback crack directly above the anchor at the top of p1 of Law and Order, a little right of the top of a group of mysteries of frenchwoman. Move up to the corner (~5.9). Climb corner, using both the corner crack and the crack/edge on the right wall. One 5.10 move is getting past the bulge, another 5.10 section is just above the bulge. After that, it is 5.9 to the chained anchor.

There is an upper chained anchor that is better if you are continuing up Lookout Point. For rapping off or TRing, it may be better to use the lower chained anchor as the upper one may lead to a jammed rope.

Protection 

For the bottom section, use a few hand-to-wide-hand sized cams and finger-sized nuts.

For the lower 2/3 of the corner, use small brass or wired nuts. The number 3-5 RP or largest 3 brass nuts are really useful as are thin-finger-sized nuts.

For the top 1/3, bring along a few finger-sized cams.


Photos of A Ship Called Black Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Jon Nelson climbing the first hard move
Jon Nelson climbing the first hard move
Jon on the starting moves
Jon on the starting moves
Below the first crux on A Ship Called Black Rock.
Below the first crux on A Ship Called Black Rock.
Upper 5.10 section of A Ship Called Black Rock.
Upper 5.10 section of A Ship Called Black Rock.
View of the starting section from below, A Ship Called Black Rock. <br /> <br />The corner that starts just left of this crack is the original second pitch of Law & Order.
View of the starting section from below, A Ship Ca...
Jon starting the crux moves
Jon starting the crux moves
Middle section of A Ship Called Black Rock, as seen from below.
Middle section of A Ship Called Black Rock, as see...
Jon climbing through the crux
Jon climbing through the crux

Comments on A Ship Called Black Rock Add Comment
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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 23, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Jon or Dereck,
I was exploring below the flag at lookout point and climbed the route that looks like it was cleaned right of the V-thread. Fun face with knobs to pulling up on sketchy overlaps avoiding the scary flake and finger lock to hand jamb over bulge. Whats the route on the left with a bolt and horizontal traverse crack? In case you forgot, there is a pull saw and some chain up there.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
May 23, 2014

Hi Geoff,

The one you did must have been the last pitch of Derek's Lookout Point Direct. I thought though that it needed some bolts to safely lead (~5.8).

About the one on the left - I have TRed it, but not lead. That horizontal finger-crack is amazing! Then it turns the corner and becomes a nice hand crack that continues up and left. I hope to put in another bolt or two this summer, clean off the bottom, and lead the thing.
By Ryan Hoover
Jun 2, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great climbing. Gave it a little cleaning on the way down, get on it.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 9, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Wow, the Ship called Black Rock is awesome. I scrubbed the starting area, both the right hand crack and left side finger layback which seems more direct and closer to the 5.10 grade.