Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
FA: | Stan Caldwell 1980s |
Page Views: | 865 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Shelton Hatfield on May 20, 2014 · Updates |
Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Tell me about it
This thing is burly. A blue-collar 5.10
Start off a knobby ramp, following features up and left. Negotiate a bit of questionable rock until the crack system begins to trend right, heading up through a STEEP bulge. Summon your inner hard-person as you battle the flaring jams, eventually pulling out a small roof. The bolted anchors I had seen notated in a guidebook were MIA, but it's easy enough to take this one to the house. Up top, natural anchor opportunities abound.
Walk and downclimb to the opposite side of the formation to rappel from the bolted anchors on top of "Roadkill". A single 80m rope got us down, but a 70m would LIKELY do it. Alternately, two shorter rappels can be made off the north side of the formation.
This route would be 3/4 stars if it weren't for a bit of crumbly rock, although this added little if any danger to the route as both the rock and gear are bomber through the crux. Enjoy
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