Hands down the best advice I've gotten and used is to keep my climbing shoes outside of my gym bag so they aren't sealed up in there. I have done that since before I bought my last pair of shoes and this pair still doesn't stink hardly at all.
I also wear socks with my climbing shoes, I've always found it far more comfortable for me and easier to climb with them on, so I think that helps to keep the funkness down too.
A friend of mine, a Doctor (and a climber), told me that not everyones foot smell is going to be equal (He didn't say it in such a simple way). Makes sense! The way I figure it? If you're one of those fuckers that get's a bad case of BO, you're also most likely going to be one of those fuckers that sends in those super STINKY MoFo's.
Breaks down to, might not be much SOME of you out there can do about it. You're going to smell like shit no matter what you do and so are your shoes.
and I know it must be a hard question to have to ask yourself.
"Am I one of those bad BO MoFo's?"
My shoes DON'T get that fucking STINK going on, and I do nothing more than keep my feet clean, and my shoes OFF my feet as QUICKLY as possible.
I've smelled some rotten ass shoes over the years, mine have stayed pretty epic since I started using a pretty easy-to-do set of protocols that have done me pretty well. See what you think, Locker, chime in if there's something missing or incorrect:
1. Wear leather shoes if possible. I know, vegan power makes your vajj get all squishy and hot, but I've found that sythetics tend to compound the stank issues.
2. If you're wearing synthetics, wash them occasionally with Woolite in the machine with a few pairs of pants (velcro doesn't stick to heavy cotton like it would with poly or sock type fabric) and bring the funk back several notches.
3. Rotate shoes. This is the biggest one; back when I was broke and climbing obsessed, training every day, my Anasazis smelled like bantha piss. They rarely dried out, stayed warm and wet+re-upped with mo' sweat every day. Eventually they would get so rotten they had to be chucked, regardless of the rand/sole condition. Having a few pairs so your shoes can dry out after a long hot day of climbing multipitch while you cram your dogs into the pinch hitters makes life a lot more pleasant.
4. Lysol. When shit gets real, spray 'em down like they do at the gym. Do so every couple days for a few weeks, they should get functional before too long.
That's what I got. And a man as passionate about resoles as yourself must have something to be said about the base quality of the original shoes. Who's doing the best construction these days? Bought some old Acopas this week+have the feeling I'll resole those babies a dozen times. Quality workmanship, through and through. Who's building really good shoes these days, companies or models, in your opinion?
And you're correct! The Acopas SHOULD yield at least few good resoles so long as you don't fuck them up royally. They're built well! Solid.
I don't know what the deal is with La Sportiva and their fucking DELAMINATION issues. If they'd change their fucking GLUE to something that actually STICKS to itself, they'd be NAILING the rest of the deal. As far as a CLIMBERS shoe goes (As compared to a better build and a resolers favorite to work on), La Sportiva is usually on the "Cutting edge".
That's what I figured. I used to wish I knew a resoler who could put Stealth HF soles+a UFO heel on a Miura, I figured that would be the perfect shoe. The only issues I had with the last pair of Miuras I bought (I understand the rubber's better now) were the rubber not being up to C4 snuff and the heel cutouts having slick leather exposed, not sure whose brilliant idea that was. Maybe no one else is hooking with the side of their heels, that shit is basic and essential to any steep climbing that I do.
Sound doable? Want some work? I don't mind having a FrankenShoe if they climb like demons...
On the topic of when to resole shoes, I have a question for Locker or anyone else who might have insight. I have a pair of 5.10 shoes that are delaminating on one sole. Would it be best to resole now and hope the resole doesn't have this problem? These are my favorite shoes for limestone and since 5.10 discontinued them (as usual) I want to keep them going as long as possible.
Any thoughts on the merits of patching up small holes in the rand with freesole or some other product prior to resoling? I can be pretty clumsy with my footwork and sometimes end up with small holes/wearing in the rand before the sole is ready for a resole. I know the best solution here is to improve my footwork...
Of course you've already hit the nail on the head. Footwork and toe dragging/stubbing.
Beyond that, since your shoes are no doubt going to be in need of rands (Of which you are already aware), doing a "Quick fix" with some product is certainly an option worth investigating. There are many products out there that fit the bill and none I can think of will cause any issues with future resoling of your shoes. As with all situations dealing with rubber/glue combinations, make sure and clean the hell out of the surface prior to applying the gunk. Roughing the area up slightly with a wire brush isn't such a bad idea either. Just don't overdo it.
With the exception of "nice legs" here, anybody living in the Pacific Northwest, or West coast in general, should feel free to send their shoes to me (Bend Resole) for resole. 5 day turnover time! More info at www.bendresole.com