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A Resolers advice to no one in particular...
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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 19, 2013
...

"peggy has a sweeeeet fro bro"




"SOLID!".


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By J Walpole
Apr 19, 2013

John Marsella wrote:
I'll look into that, thanks Flynn


Hands down the best advice I've gotten and used is to keep my climbing shoes outside of my gym bag so they aren't sealed up in there. I have done that since before I bought my last pair of shoes and this pair still doesn't stink hardly at all.

I also wear socks with my climbing shoes, I've always found it far more comfortable for me and easier to climb with them on, so I think that helps to keep the funkness down too.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 19, 2013
...

"I noticed that the eyelet for the laces was tearing through the leather pretty bad and I figured they weren't going to last much longer anyway, even with new rubber."

By now the rubber is completely gone on the toes of both shoes"



Without actually seeing them, no way to REALLY know. But it DOES sound like your assessment is most likely correct.


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Apr 19, 2013
The route in it's entirety.

Check out this blog post by a friend of mine explaining his shoe rotation, and the considerations involved in choosing when to resole.

blog.scarpa.com/well-worn-considerations-for-resoling-rock-s>>>


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By rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Apr 19, 2013
CoR

It's all a scam. What's the deal with the rand and the sole being the same color so its almost impossible to tell when you are wearing through until you actually wear through?


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Apr 19, 2013
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

rging wrote:
It's all a scam. What's the deal with the rand and the sole being the same color so its almost impossible to tell when you are wearing through until you actually wear through?

OMG! That is brilliant. Make the rand and sole different colrs.


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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Apr 19, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

csproul wrote:
OMG! That is brilliant. Make the rand and sole different colrs.


yellow sole
yellow sole


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Apr 19, 2013
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

Locker wrote:
...Synthetic shoes, foot stink and BABY POWDER. OMFG! But I'll save that for another RANT later on.



Anti-fungal sprays like Tinactin I hear are much better.


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By s.price
From PS,CO
Apr 19, 2013
 Morning Dew ,self portrait

As a courtesy I always put a dryer sheet in each shoe. Fresh and no powder.


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By rogerbenton
Apr 19, 2013
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.

Ahahahahahahahaha- sorry dude! Newbies like me have to learn this stuff the hard way sometimes, right?
Next pair won't be so bad, promise.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 19, 2013
...

A friend of mine, a Doctor (and a climber), told me that not everyones foot smell is going to be equal (He didn't say it in such a simple way). Makes sense! The way I figure it? If you're one of those fuckers that get's a bad case of BO, you're also most likely going to be one of those fuckers that sends in those super STINKY MoFo's.

Breaks down to, might not be much SOME of you out there can do about it. You're going to smell like shit no matter what you do and so are your shoes.



and I know it must be a hard question to have to ask yourself.

"Am I one of those bad BO MoFo's?"




Side note:

My shoes DON'T get that fucking STINK going on, and I do nothing more than keep my feet clean, and my shoes OFF my feet as QUICKLY as possible.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 19, 2013
...

I got dragged into a stinky shoe discussion. Getting WEAK with age! Fucking A!


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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Apr 21, 2013
Thumbtastic

I've smelled some rotten ass shoes over the years, mine have stayed pretty epic since I started using a pretty easy-to-do set of protocols that have done me pretty well. See what you think, Locker, chime in if there's something missing or incorrect:

1. Wear leather shoes if possible. I know, vegan power makes your vajj get all squishy and hot, but I've found that sythetics tend to compound the stank issues.

2. If you're wearing synthetics, wash them occasionally with Woolite in the machine with a few pairs of pants (velcro doesn't stick to heavy cotton like it would with poly or sock type fabric) and bring the funk back several notches.

3. Rotate shoes. This is the biggest one; back when I was broke and climbing obsessed, training every day, my Anasazis smelled like bantha piss. They rarely dried out, stayed warm and wet+re-upped with mo' sweat every day. Eventually they would get so rotten they had to be chucked, regardless of the rand/sole condition. Having a few pairs so your shoes can dry out after a long hot day of climbing multipitch while you cram your dogs into the pinch hitters makes life a lot more pleasant.

4. Lysol. When shit gets real, spray 'em down like they do at the gym. Do so every couple days for a few weeks, they should get functional before too long.

That's what I got. And a man as passionate about resoles as yourself must have something to be said about the base quality of the original shoes. Who's doing the best construction these days? Bought some old Acopas this week+have the feeling I'll resole those babies a dozen times. Quality workmanship, through and through. Who's building really good shoes these days, companies or models, in your opinion?


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 21, 2013
...

"Who's doing the best construction these days?".

IMHO, Boreal and Scarpa.

And you're correct! The Acopas SHOULD yield at least few good resoles so long as you don't fuck them up royally. They're built well! Solid.


I don't know what the deal is with La Sportiva and their fucking DELAMINATION issues. If they'd change their fucking GLUE to something that actually STICKS to itself, they'd be NAILING the rest of the deal. As far as a CLIMBERS shoe goes (As compared to a better build and a resolers favorite to work on), La Sportiva is usually on the "Cutting edge".


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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Apr 21, 2013
Thumbtastic

That's what I figured. I used to wish I knew a resoler who could put Stealth HF soles+a UFO heel on a Miura, I figured that would be the perfect shoe. The only issues I had with the last pair of Miuras I bought (I understand the rubber's better now) were the rubber not being up to C4 snuff and the heel cutouts having slick leather exposed, not sure whose brilliant idea that was. Maybe no one else is hooking with the side of their heels, that shit is basic and essential to any steep climbing that I do.

Sound doable? Want some work? I don't mind having a FrankenShoe if they climb like demons...

Love my new Acopas. RIP another sweet company.


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By KenH307
From Laramie, WY
May 4, 2013

On the topic of when to resole shoes, I have a question for Locker or anyone else who might have insight. I have a pair of 5.10 shoes that are delaminating on one sole. Would it be best to resole now and hope the resole doesn't have this problem? These are my favorite shoes for limestone and since 5.10 discontinued them (as usual) I want to keep them going as long as possible.


delam
delam


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
May 4, 2013
...

Hamilton...

From the photo, it looks very possible to REGLUE the original rubber back down and the YES, I'd personally go with resoling them ASAP via "Stacking" the rubber of your choice onto the original rubber.


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By KenH307
From Laramie, WY
May 4, 2013

Thanks for the speedy reply locker, much appreciated.


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By Logan Schiff
From NY, NY
May 5, 2013

Locker:

Any thoughts on the merits of patching up small holes in the rand with freesole or some other product prior to resoling? I can be pretty clumsy with my footwork and sometimes end up with small holes/wearing in the rand before the sole is ready for a resole. I know the best solution here is to improve my footwork...

Thanks!

-Logan


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
May 5, 2013
...

Of course you've already hit the nail on the head. Footwork and toe dragging/stubbing.

Beyond that, since your shoes are no doubt going to be in need of rands (Of which you are already aware), doing a "Quick fix" with some product is certainly an option worth investigating. There are many products out there that fit the bill and none I can think of will cause any issues with future resoling of your shoes. As with all situations dealing with rubber/glue combinations, make sure and clean the hell out of the surface prior to applying the gunk. Roughing the area up slightly with a wire brush isn't such a bad idea either. Just don't overdo it.


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By nicelegs
From Denver
May 5, 2013

Dear Locker,

My dog stole my huge stash of Cinco de Mayo burritos then shit in my shoes. What is your mailing address, I need a resole.


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By eric schweitzer
From Bend, Oregon
May 6, 2013
SITTING ATOP THE CHIEF

With the exception of "nice legs" here, anybody living in the Pacific Northwest, or West coast in general, should feel free to send their shoes to me (Bend Resole) for resole. 5 day turnover time! More info at www.bendresole.com

or bendresole's facebook page:

https://www.facebook.com/BendResole?fref=ts


cheers!


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By ZackB
From Littleton, CO
May 6, 2013


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
May 6, 2013
...

"My dog stole my huge stash of Cinco de Mayo burritos then shit in my shoes. What is your mailing address, I need a resole..


KEEP the shoes, just send the SHIT!


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
May 6, 2013
...

EDITED to release myself from the TRAP


FLAG


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