Mountain Project: Climbing Governor Dodge State Park

Steep laybacking on the obvious rail to the left of Secret Agent Man. Really fun moves that culminate in a clearly defined crux. Stop at the first set of anchors or continue on the easier slabby arete to the next set for a bit more fun.

Location

Protection

Bolts and an anchor over the bulge for a short pitch or continue to the second set if you wish.

Comments on A Red Recollection

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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 17, 2011

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
May 25, 2007

Eddie, isn't it to the left of SAM?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 25, 2007
rating: 5.11a

Yes, certainly to the left.

By Eddie Avallone
From: Lewisburg, WV
May 25, 2007

sorry, typo!

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 22, 2007

First Bolted line here, obviously not too long after a trip down to the Red propper...

By Seth Dyer
Jun 24, 2007

FA Jeremy Schlick/Seth Dyer

By Trad Nanny
Jun 26, 2009
rating: 5.11a

Classic climb. Seth/Jeremy, what kind of epoxy did you guys use? The left hand anchor bolt needs some, it's moving a bit.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Nov 16, 2009
rating: 5.11a

Great laybacks, stemming, drop knees, powerful moves.....could you ask for more! Love this climb!

By Trad Nanny
Mar 7, 2010
rating: 5.11a

I installed steel perma-biners to save wear and tear on the chains. TR away!

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 3, 2010
rating: 5.11a

This climb is SICK. Too much fun. So much fun it pumped me out. A note for topropers: Use the 2nd set of chains to reduce the wear on your rope and cut back on the swing out in case of a fall. This is a great hard lead.

By J.Flunker
Sep 18, 2010

True Red Recollection (AKA Red Recollection Direct), 11b (or so):
J. Flunker, September 17, 2010.
This may have been done before?...
Start down in pit (on ground) 8 feet below typical start boulder for Red Recollection. Pull some 5.10 hand jams (avoiding the boulder behind you) to reach the original start of Red Recollection. Continue up Red Recollection to the chains.
The boulder will be out of play if you hand jam. Yes, sport climbers, hand jam...
Gives you that oh so pleasant red-river-esque pump!

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 29, 2010
rating: 5.11a

Dear Mr. Flunker- although I was skeptical to begin with, I now agree that your extra 10 feet of climbing out of the pit is a pretty cool addition to this already great climb.

By J.Flunker
Oct 1, 2010

Happy to hear you enjoyed it Chris.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 15, 2011
rating: 5.11a

I wonder if this could go on gear? I seem to remember the crack running fairly continuously until the first set of anchors. Know if it's been done?

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 15, 2011
rating: 5.11a

I think it could. Not sure I would trust the rock, although Nut Job seemed solid enough.

By Trad Nanny
Mar 15, 2011
rating: 5.11a

Anything can go on gear, however this crack is pretty flaring in the beginning.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 16, 2011
rating: 5.11a

What if a route is undeniably lacking any gear whatsoever? What does it go on then, Rhoads? Pure muscle and a little bit of courage?

By Trad Nanny
Mar 17, 2011
rating: 5.11a

Correct Andy. To proper lead when no gear is available at all one must wear a harness and be tied to a rope and at least have a set of brassies or hooks along for the ride. Just soloing would be too easy.

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A Red Recollection

5.11a

Description

Location

Protection