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A Red Recollection S 
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Secret Agent Man S 
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Unsorted Routes:

A Red Recollection 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA Jeremy Schlick/Seth Dyer
Page Views: 4,875
Submitted By: Eddie Avallone on May 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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John K. on Red Recollection

photo by: Paul Campbe...

Description 

Steep laybacking on the obvious rail to the left of Secret Agent Man. Really fun moves that culminate in a clearly defined crux. Stop at the first set of anchors or continue on the easier slabby arete to the next set for a bit more fun.

Location 

Middle line on the Secret Agent Man pillar up the left leaning rail.

Protection 

Bolts and an anchor over the bulge for a short pitch or continue to the second set if you wish.


Photos of A Red Recollection Slideshow Add Photo
Toben.
Toben.
Chris Keller and a red mullet, on A Red Recollection.
Chris Keller and a red mullet, on A Red Recollecti...
Sizing up A Red Recollection. A good view of Farenheit 23 and Unlisted Number.
Sizing up A Red Recollection. A good view of Faren...
Stew with some style points.
Stew with some style points.
A Red Recollection, on a beautiful day in February. Photo Cred: Josh Knapp
A Red Recollection, on a beautiful day in February...
Skinner.
Skinner.
Reinke looses his hat , but manages to send. Feb 4th, 2012.
Reinke looses his hat , but manages to send. Feb 4...
Follow the vertical rail and clip the bolt line to the left.  Fantastic!
BETA PHOTO: Follow the vertical rail and clip the bolt line to...
No hands rest.
No hands rest.
S. Stine, climbing steady as usual.
S. Stine, climbing steady as usual.
Sasquatch.
Sasquatch.

Comments on A Red Recollection Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 5, 2014
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
May 25, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Eddie, isn't it to the left of SAM?
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 25, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Yes, certainly to the left.
By Eddie Avallone
From: Lewisburg, WV
May 25, 2007

sorry, typo!
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 22, 2007

First Bolted line here, obviously not too long after a trip down to the Red propper...
By Seth Dyer
Jun 24, 2007

FA Jeremy Schlick/Seth Dyer
By Tradoholic
Jun 26, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Classic climb. Seth/Jeremy, what kind of epoxy did you guys use? The left hand anchor bolt needs some, it's moving a bit.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Nov 16, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great laybacks, stemming, drop knees, powerful moves.....could you ask for more! Love this climb!
By Tradoholic
Mar 7, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I installed steel perma-biners to save wear and tear on the chains. TR away!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 3, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This climb is SICK. Too much fun. So much fun it pumped me out. A note for topropers: Use the 2nd set of chains to reduce the wear on your rope and cut back on the swing out in case of a fall. This is a great hard lead.
By J.Flunker
Sep 18, 2010

True Red Recollection (AKA Red Recollection Direct), 11b (or so):
J. Flunker, September 17, 2010.
This may have been done before?...
Start down in pit (on ground) 8 feet below typical start boulder for Red Recollection. Pull some 5.10 hand jams (avoiding the boulder behind you) to reach the original start of Red Recollection. Continue up Red Recollection to the chains.
The boulder will be out of play if you hand jam. Yes, sport climbers, hand jam...
Gives you that oh so pleasant red-river-esque pump!
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 29, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Dear Mr. Flunker- although I was skeptical to begin with, I now agree that your extra 10 feet of climbing out of the pit is a pretty cool addition to this already great climb.
By J.Flunker
Oct 1, 2010

Happy to hear you enjoyed it Chris.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 15, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I wonder if this could go on gear? I seem to remember the crack running fairly continuously until the first set of anchors. Know if it's been done?
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 15, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I think it could. Not sure I would trust the rock, although Nut Job seemed solid enough.
By Tradoholic
Mar 15, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Anything can go on gear, however this crack is pretty flaring in the beginning.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 16, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

What if a route is undeniably lacking any gear whatsoever? What does it go on then, Rhoads? Pure muscle and a little bit of courage?
By Tradoholic
Mar 17, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Correct Andy. To proper lead when no gear is available at all one must wear a harness and be tied to a rope and at least have a set of brassies or hooks along for the ride. Just soloing would be too easy.
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Apr 5, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Rad! So glad I saved this!

Edit to add:

Gear:
You will pass seven bolts, and the first set of anchors on your way to the upper anchor. So you'll need seven quickdraws (assuming you don't drop one), a shoulder length sling (if you're going to clip the first set of anchors for pro) and whatever you want for the upper anchor.

There were biners to lower from on the upper chains, but they are starting to get a pretty good groove in them, and the quick links that attach the chains are looking a little rusty/manky. If you are planning on doing this soon replace the quick links and the biners - $20 worth of good karma. Update the comments section if you do, otherwise I'll have to haul some stuff out there to do it with later this summer.