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A note to newbies

Original Post
Orphaned · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 11,560

So the guy is with a group of kids and a couple of teenage girls climbing up 20 feet solo. He down climbs (a 5.0) and says he won't go higher without his harness. He has no belayer, so I ask him what good his harness will do him? I have no gear with me as I am hiking with an old friend recovering from a bout with cancer. The newbie ignores me. He puts his harness on strings a short rope down the boulder, then slides the rope through his atc and starts climbing using the atc as a auto locker or soloist type set up. WTF? So I advise him to at least use a prusic loop. The newbie does not even know what that is! My buddy and I leave after telling him he's an accident waiting to happen. If he does not want to listen to me fine, but go get some lessons from someone. The newbie just gives me that blank "deer in the headlights" look and walks away with his group.

So, the point is: Newbies please learn some basics before going out even to top rope or boulder. Get some solid lessons first! Don't be a liability to others.

Mark Roth · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 14,062

Did he have a bowl cut?

dorseyec · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

and... what good is the harness doing in your picture?

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

guide atc?

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

Stop interfering with natural selection please, unless you want an Idiocracy-type future.

germsauce Epstein · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 55

I hate newbies. So glad I never was one.

Ryan N · · Bellingham, WA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 195
Eric Dorsey wrote:and... what good is the harness doing in your picture?
+1??
Boissal . · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,541
Eric Dorsey wrote:and... what good is the harness doing in your picture?
This might be the best burn ever to pop up on the proj. Strong work, Sir.

To the OP: the standard procedure in case of extreme n00biness is to casually inform all interested parties that "they're all gonna die" and move on. Spraying about prusiks - and failing at spelling the term properly when describing the incident - makes you the n00b. At best.
Yarp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0
Boissal wrote: This might be the best burn ever to pop up on the proj. Strong work, Sir. To the OP: the standard procedure in case of extreme n00biness is to casually inform all interested parties that "they're all gonna die" and move on. Spraying about prusiks - and failing at spelling the term properly when describing the incident - makes you the n00b. At best.
At best...LOL.

Just mind your own fucking business and stop trying to tell everyone else they are living their lives the wrong way. So they're gonna die. Big deal. Get over it.
Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90
Mark Roth wrote:Did he have a bowl cut?
Awesome reference... +1

But there's an idea, all noobs should have to wear bowl cuts until they've completed their entrance exam into the world of climbing. I'm thinking a list of routes compiled by the old crusty climbers here on MP that each noobie must lead.
Ted Farley · · Bozeman, Mt · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 10

i was planning on heading out to the crag without my chest harness but then i got you advice. thanks bill

Josh Olson · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 255
elena sera jose wrote:climbing now is super main stream)
hahahaha....wait, you are serious?
GR Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 115

I really enjoy unsolicited advice. It seems like there are more and more people out there dedicated to spreading age old climbing wisdom.

Bump for an awsome burn. I wear my harness while bouldering because it makes my junk look huge!

tooTALLtim · · Vanlife · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 1,806

I just saw an American Death Triangle used in an anchor setup today...sigh.

At least they had a few brews while setting it up, owing to the beer cans scattered around their anchor (not that there's anything wrong with beer and climbing).

Mike G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0
Mike Lane wrote:Stop interfering with natural selection please, unless you want an Idiocracy-type future.
You cant fix stupid
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
Mike Lane wrote:Stop interfering with natural selection please, unless you want an Idiocracy-type future.
+1 You, me and Darwin all agree this is the best solution.
Yarp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

Bill, bear with me here, but this is you?



and you are top roping your own V8+ (really?) boulder problem that you claim the first ascent of? And you are using a prusik to do this? Looks like you've got a whole little area there to yourself to practice prusik TR safety?

mountainproject.com/v/sawpi…

Sounds like some sick shit brah...

mountainproject.com/v/jaws/…

Ok...thanks for the heads up on how to safely top rope boulder problems with a chest harness.
Boissal . · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,541

Wow. Just... Wow.
Solo/prussik/chest harness TR of a V8+. Shirtless at that.

I can only assume that despite the jugs in the picture and the beach landing it's a super thin 30' ultra highball problem with a crippler landing. Proud.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Yarp wrote: At best...LOL. Just mind your own fucking business and stop trying to tell everyone else they are living their lives the wrong way. So they're gonna die. Big deal. Get over it.
Dude gotta call you out....Didn't you just try to blow up two FS threads because you didn't like the pricing?

Quote..."You gotta be kidding me. This dude deserves to get flamed and others like him" (context - cam pricing)

Not trying to start a disagreement here but this is MYOB???
Yarp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0
Scott McMahon wrote: Dude gotta call you out....
so you wanna meet in front of the saloon at high noon then? Or what?

Bill, seriously man, thanks for the laugh this morning!
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Yarp wrote: so you wanna meet in front of the saloon at high noon then? Or what? Bill, seriously man, thanks for the laugh this morning!
Hahah...well I do have a happy hour app on my phone!!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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