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 ADVANCED
Helen's Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Nice Top Rope TR 
AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 
Beam Me Up, Scotty T 
Borderline Boulevard  T 
Brave Cowboy T 
Buffalo Soldier T,S 
Buffalo Tears T 
Electric Koolaid Acid Test  T 
Face Value T 
Fool's Gold T,S 
Fractured Fairytales S 
Gettin' the Groove S 
On the Bus T 
Pebble Beach T,TR 
Spree T,S 
Sticks 'n' Stones T 
Unknown on South Face T 

A Nice Top Rope 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 887
Submitted By: slim on Oct 1, 2005

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Description 

This route is a great way to torch your feet at the end of the day on Helen's Dome.

Climb "Beam Me Up Scotty" and clip some runners into the anchors for a double rope toprope. If you wish to lead it, there is really good gear. But it is WAY up there, and then it is a LONG way to the anchor.

Start 10 feet left of "Fool's Gold". There is a nice water groove with a vertical [dike] of sorts (kind of like a granite tufa) just to the left of the groove. Climb straight up the series of [dikes] using many techniques. the climbing is steep, sustained, and spectacular. The final [dike] peters out at a minor headwall crux. Keep going straight up to the anchors.

There is a little bit of lichen, but it isn't the really desperate kind. This is an absolute foot cramper.

Protection 

Top rope, or if you want your family to see how weak your life insurance is, give it a go on the sharp end.


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