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 ADVANCED
Dogwood Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Modest Man from Mandrake S 
Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco T 
Cross-Eyed and Painless S 
Drunken Crack T,TR 
Haven't A Clue S,TR 
Hyper-Gamma Spaces T,TR 
I Think I'm Going Bald S,TR 
Life During Wartime T,TR 
Lion of Zion, The T 
Little Creatures T 
Little Critters T 
Little Things S 
On the Skids S 
Quartzite and (No) Stainless T 
Take Me To The River S,TR 
Unforgiven S,TR 
Unknown west of Mandrake S,TR 
Unknown west of Take Me to the River T,TR 

A Modest Man from Mandrake 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Stuart and Bret Ruckman, Libby Ellis, 1990
Page Views: 3,238
Submitted By: Jonathan Sakai on Jun 11, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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BETA PHOTO: Middle section of Dogwood Crag showing #7 Mo...

Description 

This sport route (6 bolts _ chains) would make a really nice training climb. The first 60' is face climbing on a multitude of good holds, which leads to a small roof which is just enough to get you pumping. Note that the climb starts from a large ledge ~15' up from the bank of the stream. So when rapping down, stop at the ledge!

Beta: There is supposedly a scramble somewhere at the midpoint of Dogwood (see the first photo in this section - the left-slanting shrub-covered diagonal?) - but we found it a little too overgrown to navigate safely. We rapped down from the chains on a 60m rope.

Protection 

This route is bolted, with chains at the top. There are plenty of features at the top to set up a belay station with cams and nuts (we found the scramble a bit dicey and decided to just climb up and out).


Photos of A Modest Man from Mandrake Slideshow Add Photo
This is looking directly up the climb showing a strenuous little crux midway up and the overhang at the top.
BETA PHOTO: This is looking directly up the climb showing a st...
3draws hanging to help show the route. Bolt four is missing. You can maybe get strung out hard to tell.
3draws hanging to help show the route. Bolt four i...

Comments on A Modest Man from Mandrake Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 25, 2014
By Mason
Jun 27, 2003

I climbed this route last night, and I thought it ruled! We rappelled down from the chains as our approach route and then took everything back out the top and walked off.

Big jugs and some tricky leverage moves make the lower section challenging and very enjoyable. The roof section toward the top was much easier the first time, without a backpack full of gear :). I recommend this climb to anyone. The person I was with has only been out twice, but he maneuvered the roof after only three tries.

There seem to be several stray bolts close to this route, or at least they weren't in my latest guide book. Anyone know if there are some routes in progress, or if there are other named/rated sport routes that are climbed from the same ledge?
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 14, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Smooth, very smooth rock down low. Fun roof up high. The anchors are a bit far over the top creating a lot of drag for the top-rope. If desired, bring longer runners to clip into the anchors that would allow the rope to be over the edge and rub less.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 2, 2005

Gear Alert
This climb is missing a bolt. I believe it is the fifth bolt that is without a hanger so there is a groundfall runout over some easy ground to the roof. Though it is easy in this section... it would result in serious injury to fall here. If you can't hold it together mentally, you might want to shy away from this till the hanger is replaced. Also... there are hangers without chains at the top so prepare to belay from above and walk off.
By Rebecca Airmet
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 31, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There are now chains on the bolts at the top of this climb. However, I believe that not one, but two, bolts are missing. The first three are in place, and then bolts four and five appear to be chopped, leaving it run out to the sixth bolt at the roof.

When all the bolts were there, this made a great lead climb for those just into the grade - potential falls after the first bolt are very clean and it's a fun, long route, relatively sustained in places, but dang good rests when you really need 'em.
By BenT
Aug 23, 2006
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R

In my oppinion one of the best at dogwood and one of my favorites. The lead is very run out. I couldn't find good trad placements to protect the run out. I'm willing to help someone replace the missing bolts. Bring slings for the top rope.
By Ryan Peterson
From: North Salt Lake, Utah
Jun 23, 2007

Climbed this today and loved it, didn't feel like a 5.9 until the second roof.

Fourth and fifth bolts are still missing though, if you fall before that final roof you'll probably hit the ground. You can go right and clip the two bolts on the other route with long runners, but I chose to just go left and climb, it was an easy section, but scared the Hell out of me when I was perched on the ledge trying to clip that last bolt.

Much easier to just rappel from the chains rather than walk all the way around and then scramble up to the ledge.

Oh, and there are plenty of loose rocks, including ones that would seem perfect to help you over that second roof.
By Bart Ridd
From: SLC, UT
Nov 7, 2010

Nice long climb! I had fun leading this one. There are a few tricky spots of smooth rock, other than that its smooth sailin. Upper roof is way fun, classic BCC!!
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Apr 5, 2012

The fifth bolt is still missing but there is gear. I was able to get a micro nut and small cam in between the 4th bolt and roof. The roof can be climbed to the left of the bolt on gear too (.75 camalot).

I recommend warming up on the two lines to the left and not the other way around!
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 8, 2012

bolt 5 still missing. Going on 7 years now?
By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 18, 2012

Fun climb! Especially when you get to the roof, which is obviously the crux of this climb. Nice little belay ledge as well.
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Aug 24, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Bolt #5 still missing. Perhaps I got lost but the only anchor I saw was one bolt with a single chain link - sketchy. That runout without the 5th bolt is pretty easy climbing, but definitely will mess with you if you aren't mentally prepared.
By Wic
From: SLC, UT
Apr 25, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This and "Little Creatures" are my favorite climbs at the Dogwood crag. When toproped, this is an easy enough climb that many beginners can do it with only a little trouble at the roof. If you have a 70 meter rope, it's fun to belay from the ground rather than the top of the 15 foot ledge. When belaying from the top, it is definitely more fun to go all the way down to the ground, but remember, you need a 70 meter rope for this. The route is missing a couple of bolts and as far as I know there are no bolts from the first tiny roof (if you can even call it a roof - more like a bulge in the wall) to the second large roof (the crux of the climb). There is a bolt on the second roof, but none in between. You can clip some bolts on the climb just to the right, but be prepared to swing if you fall. Awesome climb! I think it's the best climb on the Dogwood Crag!