Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
North Rim Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Modern Day Interpretation of Mig's Arete/Swallow Arete T 
Atlantis T 
Blacksmiths T 
Brown Pants T 
Buzz Cut  T 
Cloak & Dagger T 
Diagonal Will T 
Ghost Dancer Arete T 
Great White Wall T 
Hotlanta T 
Lauren's Arete T 
Life Aquatic, The T 
Local's Route T 
Lost Boys T 
Lost Cities T 
Newberry's Delight T 
No Country for Old Men T 
Pathfinder T 
Peter Terbush Tower T 
Petit Mal T 
Porcelain Arete T 
Prussian Arete T 
Road Head T 
Rosy Arete/Tourist Route T 
Russian Arete T 
Suffer Pony at the Disco T 
World According to Guppy, The T 
Yellow Submarine T 
Unsorted Routes:

A Modern Day Interpretation of Mig's Arete/Swallow Arete 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 800', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jonathan Schaffer & Lindsey Schauer
New Route: Yes
Season: cooler or early morn
Page Views: 504
Submitted By: Jay Brown on Jun 2, 2014  with updates from Old Black Guy

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Topo.
2014 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is just a continuous 5.10 route. The last pitch is the best Eldo .10+/.11- !

P3. After the 1st 2 pitches of Cloak and Dagger, head right into a walk uphill, then climb a slot to face holds and cracks to an alcove belay in a peg band, .10.

P4. Continue up another slot to easy, wide, blocky chimney like to a belay ledge, .10-.

P5. Climb more face cracks to an awkward move to a ledge jug, then continue up a finger flake to a sloped boulder on the left, belay on the other side of it and sit in the seat someone made, .10+.

P6. Climb the hand and fist crack on the left or the hard to see fingers crack to the right, not the thin corner, that would be like .12? Belay on a perch ledge, .10.

P7. Head up the awesome, leaning crack system staying out of the of the o.w. chimney and climb the leaning sporty crack out right and crimp your way back into the system,then to an easy ledgy section, and then the "Eldo-like", leaning crack and face system to a tough move or two to the belay on the top of the Comic routes, .10/.11-.

Head left to the Comic raps and up the gully to camp and beers!


Location 

This starts right of Comic and shares 1st 2 pitches of Cloak & Dagger.


Protection 

Doubles and 3 each of hands, #1-#4.
There is absolutely no need for any big stuff!



Photos of A Modern Day Interpretation of Mig's Arete/Swallow Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Original topo.
Original topo.
Comments on A Modern Day Interpretation of Mig's Arete/Swallow Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim Donini
Jun 3, 2014

Just did this climb last week...loved it. Excellent rock, more intriguing and continuous climbing than Cloak and Dagger. A few bushes to get through that will clean up with more ascents. Found the next to largest size of new BD offset cams important to protect traverse back into chimney on last pitch.
Do it!
Additional description for pitch five: you will be at the base of a flared, right-leaning chimney...do not climb it, climb the discontinuous, thin crack system to the right for 35/40 feet then traverse back left into the top of the chimney...this is where the offset cam is useful. There is a nice ledge in the middle of this pitch and it might be preferable to do it in two pitches.
Stays in the shade until midday.

By Mary Harlan
From: Aspen, CO
Jun 16, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

To add on to the description (although the topo covers some of this):

Pitches 1 and 2 are the 5.6 and the 5.9 of Cloak and Dagger.

Do a few moves traversing right of the stellar crux pitch of Cloak and Dagger, walking up hill to the black-streaked slot with a blocky face above. Pitch 3 is the black-streaked slot to blocky face. Belay in alcove, as noted by Jay Brown.

Pitch 4. I thought this pitch was more of a 5.8+. After about 25 feet of climbing up the obvious black-colored slot, you will have a choice to go right or left; GO RIGHT. The climbing looks aesthetically better to the left, but the choss-filled chimney to the right is the way to go. Belay on the first obvious ledge you come to that looks good to belay at.

Pitch 5. Walk 15 feet to the right of the belay. Here, start face climbing up a dark brown face and broken rock. It looks improbable, but it goes. There is a slot up to a stance. My partner and I got off route here and ended up just climbers' left of this pitch. We actually did a great variation, also on broken rock and challenging face climbing. We call this the "Birthday Party Variation", and it goes at 5.11. Either way, you end up at the base of the beautiful, wide crack on dark rock on the face or a hard-to-see finger crack on the face way right, next to the thin corner crack. I agree with Jim Donini that this pitch can be broken into 2.

Pitch 6. A beautiful, wide crack through a mini roof and then up through Lumpy- Ridge-ish rock. Unless you think tight #5 cams are fist cracks, and #4s are hand cracks, I would say that this crack is definitely wider than "hands and fists." The first 40 feet through the mini-roof are protected by #4 and a #5 cam. The tricky bit about this crack is that you can literally face climb through the mini-roof, so look around for the face holds when at the roof. Once over the roof, look for jugs and excellent feet to take you up into a twin crack, then use both cracks and the overlap to continue up to the "perch", beneath a huge, angling chimney.

Pitch 7. We broke this into 2 pitches - we were a little lean on gear and we were afraid we wouldn't have enough for the "Eldo-like" crack above on the headwall, but first: the huge, angling chimney. This chimney looks and climbs like something you'd see in Red Rocks, with plenty of gear (#1-4 cams) throughout. Continue up the right-arching, perfect hand crack for another 30 feet, and belay atop a block above and left of the arching hand crack.

Pitch 8. We also discovered we had 2 choices: you can either continue up the "Eldo-like" climbing on the dark brown headwall, or you can go left. We explored both choices and discovered that going left takes you to the "unroping ledge" of Comic Relief or Cloak and Dagger, while the headwall takes you almost right next to the rap station.

My only gear add-on is a #5 Cam. We hauled that thing up and used it on almost every pitch, and we were glad we had it!

Enjoy!

By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Jun 16, 2014

#5, huh?

By doligo
Jun 21, 2014

This route is stellar and well-protected. Do the chimney. No need for any special gear that way (no micros, no extra wide, no offsets). This route eats nuts - bring lots of slings.

#5 is not needed. I'm a girl whom #4 cracks make cry, and I sewed it up with a bomber #3 at the first wide spot and walked a #4 way up high. Some solid hand and fist jams can be found in constrictions, but mostly good cheater face holds in and out of the crack.

The only thing to add is that it's better not to belay in the alcove and link pitches 3 and 4 (the first two proper pitches on Mig's after you leave C&D) - 60m is enough. There is a lot of loose stuff on the ledge, so if you belay there, you'll be hosing your second. If you link, do not leave gear down low in the alcove (for the same reason). The move out of it is 5.8ish, then it's low fifth class to the base of discontinued cracks.

By phil broscovak
Jun 27, 2014

The route name reference should be for the Swallow ArÍte not the Swallow Wall.