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A Major Concept 
Friction Slab 
North Face Bolt Route 

A Major Concept 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b C2 [details]
FA: Unknown, FFA: Darrell Hensel
Page Views: 917
Submitted By: Brad G on Sep 25, 2007
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A Major Concept

Description 

A popular introduction to Aid climbing. This climb can also go free at 5.12a.

Head up the bolt ladder that goes up the center of the really smooth dark slab. After about 25 feet the rock starts to overhang. From this point climb the fingertip crack up and to the left (no foot holds here). Pull through the overhang and on to a hard boulder problem finish to the top.


Location 

The route is located to the left of the Jam crack.


Protection 

Quick draws and small cams, bolted anchor



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A Major Concept (5.12a), Mt. Rubidoux
A Major Concept (5.12a), Mt. Rubidoux
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By Tyler Logan
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 16, 2008

There are actually several practice aid climbs in the vicinity, but this one is probably the best (and hardest) because it isn't all fixed gear. If new to aid climbing, or if unwilling to risk one's life aiding a thirty-foot route on manky gear that is way old, you might consider rigging a toprope back-up when practicing on these climbs.

By Darrell Hensel
Feb 8, 2012

The free rating is 12a, not 12+ as mentioned in the description. The bottom bolt ladder can be done free by doing a few moves on the flake just left of it, then traversing right to obtain the good holds at the base of the lieback. No aid required. FFA: Darrell Hensel.