A Long December 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | [B. Gillett, C. Hill, K. Younge, 2003] |
| Submitted By: | Jeff G. on Dec 24, 2005 |
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Just after the first crux.
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Description This route is 30-40 feet left of Life After James. Start in a very small left facing dihedral then up a nice finger crack (crux). After the finger crack traverse to the left then surmount a wild overhang with laybacks and high steps (good gear at the lip and the difficulty eases quickly so just go for it!). Two bolts with chains are at the end of the first pitch. There is a 5.9 bolted second pitch but you can also rap after the first with a 60m line. [There is a 3rd pitch, see comment below.]
Protection Lots of small cams and stoppers. Nothing larger than a #1 [Camalot] needed.
| Comments on A Long December |
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By nolteboy
Dec 27, 2005
| Better than it looks, for both quality of the climbing and quality of protection. |
By Bernard Gillett
Dec 27, 2005
| There's also a third pitch, up the crack directly above the double bolt anchor. 5.9 over initial roof, then easier to top (rappel 70', 98', 95' to ground). Rack to a #4 Friend; not as nice as the first two pitches. FA should also include Ken Younge and Chris Hill; we did it in 2003. |
By Dougald MacDonald
Mar 24, 2008
| Easy to TR by climbing the 5.10 Caesar's crack about 25 feet to the left to reach anchors at 95 feet. Excellent pitch! |
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