A Little Testis 

I think this pitch is overhyped and overrated. I thought Wicker Cranium was a lot more value for the grade.

BETA ALERT >> I was told that the crux was the awkward bulge, and that the upper corner was easy. Handcrack in a corner sounded right up my alley - but, after cruising the lower bulge, I blew the onsight above, pumped out in the upper corner. It's easier than the bulge, but - not by that much, and it's steeper than it looks!

Loved the pitch.

In my opinion a stellar route with some impeccable crack and engaging features. The awkward bulge in the middle somewhat clashes with the style of the rest of the route and seems to require a different approach for every body type (smaller climbers seem to tend towards chimney/stem techniques whereas those with longer limbs can usually use a combination of heel/toe cams and reachy thrutching). Perfect hand and finger crack to the top may feel like the redpoint crux as the pump can build rapidly. Hard to compare to wicker cranium as they are quite different animals but absolutely excellent in its own right. Most run out the bottom crack as it is easy and the pro is needed up top.