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Up Among the Firs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little Testis T 
Chokin' A Grogan S 
Collet a Day T,S 
Nose, The S 
Nostalgia Aint What it Used to be T,S 
Poster Boy T,S 
Road Rash T,S 
Toasted Testa Rossa T 
Totally Clips S 
Wicker Cranium T 
Zazert T 
Zeasi T,S 

A Little Testis 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Glen Payan, Jeff Thomson, 1997
Page Views: 2,268
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Kathleen enjoying the stellar corner


Visit Up Among the Firs for this climb, stay for the other climbs. Start up a fairly easy corner, a few awkward moves in a flaring crack lead to a beautiful left facing corner crack.


The trail that takes you to Up Among the Firs pretty much exits in front of a feature called "The Pie" as there are cracks that section the face the way a pie would be cut into six pieces. The right side of this area is bounded by a big left facing corner which hosts this climb.


Medium nuts and cams will get you through the initial corner and flare. The upper crack takes hand sized gear, but note that it widens a bit inside, so choose your gear wisely: what enters the crack may tip out once it's inside. Don't let that comment worry you too much, the protection is excellent.

Photos of A Little Testis Slideshow Add Photo
The top-out view
The top-out view
Sonya reaching the top
Sonya reaching the top
The upper corner of A Little Testis
The upper corner of A Little Testis
The lower section of A Little Testis - casual jamm...
The lower section of A Little Testis - casual jamm...
Stemming the upper section
Stemming the upper section
This is the top-out...
This is the top-out...
Aaron on A Little Testis.
Aaron on A Little Testis.

Comments on A Little Testis Add Comment
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By david goldstein
Aug 12, 2007

I think this pitch is overhyped and overrated. I thought Wicker Cranium was a lot more value for the grade.
Sep 2, 2007

BETA ALERT >> I was told that the crux was the awkward bulge, and that the upper corner was easy. Handcrack in a corner sounded right up my alley - but, after cruising the lower bulge, I blew the onsight above, pumped out in the upper corner. It's easier than the bulge, but - not by that much, and it's steeper than it looks!

Loved the pitch.
By Mark van Eijk
Sep 2, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

In my opinion a stellar route with some impeccable crack and engaging features. The awkward bulge in the middle somewhat clashes with the style of the rest of the route and seems to require a different approach for every body type (smaller climbers seem to tend towards chimney/stem techniques whereas those with longer limbs can usually use a combination of heel/toe cams and reachy thrutching). Perfect hand and finger crack to the top may feel like the redpoint crux as the pump can build rapidly. Hard to compare to wicker cranium as they are quite different animals but absolutely excellent in its own right. Most run out the bottom crack as it is easy and the pro is needed up top.
By Adrian Lazar
Jul 18, 2013

Amazing climb, awesome hand jams, and good rests ... no need to get pumped. IMO the crux is the bulge.
By Alex Ch
From: Fairfield, CT
Jul 3, 2014

don't put a cam in the crux. such a sweet climb!
By TradSquirrel
Jul 13, 2015

Very, very, fun climbing. (Notwithstanding the awkward-as-heck bulge.)
By mark webster
From: Gig Harbor
Sep 14, 2015

This climb is a real gem! You don't need anything bigger than a yellow. I was able to get top rope pieces for the bulge move using finger size cams. There is a rest there on a great face hold out left. You can stem it, or hand jam the bulge to a knee move using a high toe jam.

The upper dihedral is one to two inches, with a few finger sized cams on the top out. You can basically set top rope peices from a no hands rest, then power up to the sinker hand jam, plug in another red #1, and you are done with the hard climbing.

It is super safe, the crack eats gear the whole way. I did a combination of toe jams, hand jams, laybacks and ring locks through the upper crux. It felt a lot like a strenuous nine after you pass the bulge.
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