Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
A Little Piece of South Dakota

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ethical Jesture T 
Midwestern Crack T 
North Dakota T,TR 
Reds T 

A Little Piece of South Dakota  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 39.73796, -105.35707 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,709
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 23, 2002
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Upper Canyon access closed - 8p Mar. 22 - 5p Mar. 28 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This large-ish wall is just downstream from High Profile Wall and also faces West and North. The climbing is largely unremarkable, and this probably explains the rarity with which it is climbed (in 20 years of climbing in the area, I have never seen anyone on it!). However, it is home to a few moderate trad lines that tick in at 5.9 or so. These follow obvious grooves and crack systems. One face climb has been established at 5.9 as well, and it carries the LPSD moniker. I checked out LPSD in 2000 thinking it might be a good spot to develop more moderate face climbs, but the effort involved seemed too great. The rock here is granitic and fairly rough. We did a two pitch 5.8 called Reds that kicked up quite enjoyable climbing, although the bulk of the climbing seemed more like 5.6. If you are looking for an off beat day on nearly virgin stone, LPSD might be worth a visit.

Getting There 

Park as for the High Profile Wall but hike back down stream to the much larger wall. LPSD is best approached a bit uphill and from the right side.

L->R: 

A. North Dakota, 7, 1p, 90', gear or TR.
B. A Little Piece of South Dakota, 9 R, bolts & gear.
C. Ethical Jesture, 9 R, 1p, 120', gear.
D. Bugsy, 9, 1p, gear.
E. Reds, 8, 1-2p, 125', gear.
F. Midwestern Crack, 6, 1-2p, 110', gear.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.0 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For A Little Piece of South Dakota
The first part of the route.

Midwestern Crack 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  CO : Golden : ... : A Little Piece of South Dak...
While this climb is not very difficult, the hardest part is going up the parallel cracks just below the tree. The protection is good here and the climbing is enjoyable. You can belay here, at the tree, if you wish to do the climb in two pitches. You start the climb in either of the two cracks which start near the bottom. I took the lower crack, but the upper crack looks enjoyable too. From the tree, the climb continues up rock that is easier to climb than the rock below. You belay from one of m...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on A Little Piece of South Dakota Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Feb 16, 2015
It's too bad there is no Tyrol allowed by Jeffco. This crag is kind of fun and would be more popular if access was not so difficult.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!