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A Little Piece of South Dakota

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L to R R to L Alpha
Ethical Jesture T 
North Dakota T,TR 

A Little Piece of South Dakota  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 23, 2002
Forecast:
Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Clear
52° | 31°
Clear
50° | 35°
Clear
43° | 28°
Clear
51° | 32°
Clear
53° | 35°
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Description 

This large-ish wall is just downstream from High Profile Wall and also faces West and North. The climbing is largely unremarkable, and this probably explains the rarity with which it is climbed (in 20 years of climbing in the area, I have never seen anyone on it!). However, it is home to a few moderate trad lines that tick in at 5.9 or so. These follow obvious grooves and crack systems. One face climb has been established at 5.9 as well, and it carries the LPSD moniker. I checked out LPSD in 2000 thinking it might be a good spot to develop more moderate face climbs, but the effort involved seemed too great. The rock here is granitic and fairly rough. We did a two pitch 5.8 called Reds that kicked up quite enjoyable climbing, although the bulk of the climbing seemed more like 5.6. If you are looking for an off beat day on nearly virgin stone, LPSD might be worth a visit.

Getting There 

Park as for the High Profile Wall but hike back down stream to the much larger wall. LPSD is best approached a bit uphill and from the right side.

L->R: 

A. North Dakota, 7, 1p, 90', gear or TR.
B. A Little Piece of South Dakota, 9 R, bolts & gear.
C. Ethical Jesture, 9 R, 1p, 120', gear.
D. Bugsy, 9, 1p, gear.
E. Reds, 8, 2p, gear.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.4 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For A Little Piece of South Dakota
The route.

North Dakota 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CO : Golden : ... : A Little Piece of South Dak...
This is a fun, easy route. The most difficult parts are right at the start and near the very end. The first left slanting crack is fun and very good for protection. The top crack has some small bushes in it, but they don't really get in the way. There are several ledges along the length of the climb....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Feb 16, 2015
It's too bad there is no Tyrol allowed by Jeffco. This crag is kind of fun and would be more popular if access was not so difficult.