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Walt's Wall (aka The Outsider Wall)
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A Jap In The NBA T,S 
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Walt's Wall Waltz S 

A Jap In The NBA 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Theo Takeda, Rob McMurry, Walt Wehner, June 1997
Page Views: 735
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Jul 15, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

This route begins climbing up a giant featured slab using gear placements in an incipient crack for the first 30 feet, then cruise up a slightly overhanging wall past four bolts for 30 feet. This route is fairly sustained at the grade, and is often overlooked.


Location 

This route is the first one to the right of Walt's Wall Waltz.


Protection 

Stoppers, Aliens, and quickdraws. 4 bolts to a 2 bolt chained anchor.



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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 23, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I found a #1 link cam, .5 BD cam and bomber #9 BD nut to be adequate gear on the lower portion of this route. The four lead protection bolts appear to be smaller than 3/8" (5/16"ers?) but appear to be in good shape. One, however, has about two inches of thread sticking out so either it is a really long bolt or the hole wasn't drilled deep enough.
The anchor could use some help too. One bolt is 5/16" and the other is 3/8". The chains aren't equalized so all of the load is on the 5/16"er (not 1/4", sorry for the typo, Walt).

It's a bit sad this route has such funky protection because it's a fun, long moderate.

By Wa3lt
Mar 1, 2009

This was the first route I ever participated in bolting - our drill ran out of juice after the anchor and top 4 bolts, so we decided to make it a "trad" route.

If anyone wants to add bolts, or to help fix the anchor, you are more than welcome to (and I would thank you). It would be a much better route fully bolted, I think, and though I don't recall what we did with the anchor (I don't remember ever using 1/4" bolts), I'm sure it could use some help.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 2, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Thanks for the comment and info, Walt. Given your permission I'd be interested in making it an all bolt-protected route and replacing the anchor. It's a long, fun outing that would make for a decent warm up for some. Also, sorry about the 1/4" "typos". I realized later the bolts aren't 1/4" but they do look smaller than 3/8". ?

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 17, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Today we added five bolts to the bottom of this route starting about 15' to the right of what I believe is the traditional start to the route. This start seemed more entertaining for longer (still no more than 5.9) and left the gear-protected start intact for those that may enjoy that sort of thing.
I also did a good amount of cleaning near the top and let loose a huge block that was ready to go. I started to drill new holes for a better anchor but the sub-40F temps zapped my drill battery prematurely so I just beefed up the existing anchor, equalized it and installed steel rap rings. I plan to go back to install the new anchor.
The existing four bolts on the upper section are adequate but I'd like to replace those too sometime.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Sep 7, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Thanks for the effort Jason.

By Mort
May 22, 2013

WARNING: I climbed this again on 5/20 and when my quickdraw tapped the rock below the 2nd bolt, the whole block vibrated. You can see cracks all around the block. Seems like you are risking a ground fall with the second bolt still attached to a large block following you. There also seem to be some newly loosening blocks around bolt three.