A great way to clip to the anchors

I was going to post this to the various threads regarding the PAS but, ya know...

This is one loop of cord girth hitched to my harness and another "adjustable prusik". The adjustable is my master point and the other the back up. In addition I can remove these from the harness and ascend fixed rope. I ditched the dasiy and all that other crap after figuring this out. Probably 20ft of cord needed.

Adjustable Prusik

Tying in with the rope is nice and simple but sometimes gets in the way of rope management. Plus you will need something else for the rap anyway.

I use a purcell most of the time, so I'm with ya on that. But why another piece of cord? Im curious, not busting you. If its a strength thing though, I think its way overkill.

EDIT: 7mm sterling cord is rated to 2,788 lbs which is 12.4 KN. Metolius pas is 18KN.

If you are belaying off of your belay loop, and the force of a fall is going to be transferred to that prucell, then yes, back it up. But its much easier to belay off the power point of your anchor in autoblock mode, and let the anchor take the weight. And just use the purcell for yourself, in which case...even 1500 lbs would be sufficient. Im just starting conversation, like I said im not busting you or your method. I dont F with ninja's

cms829 wrote:I use a purcell most of the time, so I'm with ya on that. But why another piece of cord? Im curious, not busting you. If its a strength thing though, I think its way overkill. EDIT: 7mm sterling cord is rated to 2,788 lbs which is 12.4 KN. Metolius pas is 18KN. If you are belaying off of your belay loop, and the force of a fall is going to be transferred to that prucell, then yes, back it up. But its much easier to belay off the power point of your anchor in autoblock mode, and let the anchor take the weight. And just use the purcell for yourself, in which case...even 1500 lbs would be sufficient. Im just starting conversation, like I said im not busting you or your method. I dont F with ninja's

Right, the other cord is really just for ascending if need be but an additional advantage is that if I want to shift clip in points I can stay clipped in with one and move the other around, thus staying clipped in at all times. Can't do that if simply clove-hitching with the rope.

Gotcha. I guess it would be the same using two purcells. Different strokes for different folks. Ive never really ever thought to myself, "self, I think we should move a few feet over". So I guess Ive never felt the need to move any more then my one purcell would let me. But I guess the situation could come up in an emergency possibly. Or if someone is having trouble managing the rope from a certain position, or whatever. I dunno. Do your thing!

Please god no more PAS threads...

And no, if I am doing multipitch I will obviously just use the rope. If I am cleaning a single pitch route why would I want 20 feet of cord hanging off my harness in that cluster fuck? PAS seems much easier in that application and less clutter.

Not bulky at all, tuck it under and you will barely notice it. If it is bulky for you I think it's worth the versatility. Pretty awesome pic BTW.

Dorsey, try ascending a fixed rope with the PAS or micro-adjust your position and let me know how it goes. This set up costs less and has more uses, what's to hate?

caughtinside wrote:It's always easier to take more stuff up with you. a pack, more water, shoes, wag bag, whatever. But I think most climbers will find the less junk you take the more enjoyable the climbing is. Sorry man, there's nothing ninja about your setup. Well, maybe Beverly Hills Ninja. I see stuff like that and I just think of the Dudes in the Valley Ready to Crush. mountainproject.com/v/10598…

You started off with a good point, but finished by making fun of somebody(somebodies). Which is too bad.

Trad Ninja wrote:Not bulky at all, tuck it under and you will barely notice it. If it is bulky for you I think it's worth the versatility. Pretty awesome pic BTW. Dorsey, try ascending a fixed rope with the PAS or micro-adjust your position and let me know how it goes. This set up costs less and has more uses, what's to hate?

Haha TardNinja 20 feet of cord tied into you is not bulky?? Whatever... To me that's just extra crap to bring, I guess when you are toproping 20 foot boulders at Devils Lake its not a big issue.

Like I said I only use the the PAS for single pitch cleaning, why would I EVER need to ascend a rope with it in that scenario? And "micro" adjusting my position, just what is that? Never had the need for that either. The PAS offers an adjustment every 2 inches, I am going to rue the day I need to micro adjust my position by .75 inches!!!

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dorseyec wrote: Haha TardNinja 20 feet of cord tied into you is not bulky?? Whatever... To me that's just extra crap to bring, I guess when you are toproping 20 foot boulders at Devils Lake its not a big issue. Like I said I only use the the PAS for single pitch cleaning, why would I EVER need to ascend a rope with it in that scenario? And "micro" adjusting my position, just what is that? Never had the need for that either. The PAS offers an adjustment every 2 inches, I am going to rue the day I need to micro adjust my position by .75 inches!!!

No, it's not bulky, it's not tied in a bundle as you can plainly see. So, what do you use in a multi-pitch situation?

You never know when you will have to ascend a rope. As for the micro adjust, well sometimes it might be more comfortable to move and inch in or out from the wall. With your coveted PAS you would have to unclip to adjust, with this you don't. Not a big deal but a definite improvement.

As for staying clipped in, no you can't do it the same with the rope. As I think you're picturing this, you clove hitch into the anchor (which is of course adjustable but not as smoothly as my system) and then clove hitch in a few inches later to another part of the anchor? I've done this but while partners shift position or moving the rope there's still a tendency to get snagged up.

With what I use you can separate yourself from the rope to shift positions or pass the rope to your partner without stepping over or tangling the rope up.

Look Dorsey, we get it, you don't like it, that's fine, I'm not putting a gun to your head and forcing you to use it. It's just another alternative for those people who don't see it your way. If you don't like these threads DON'T READ THEM! No one is forcing you to do that either.

cms829 wrote:Gotcha. I guess it would be the same using two purcells. Different strokes for different folks. Ive never really ever thought to myself, "self, I think we should move a few feet over". So I guess Ive never felt the need to move any more then my one purcell would let me. But I guess the situation could come up in an emergency possibly. Or if someone is having trouble managing the rope from a certain position, or whatever. I dunno. Do your thing!

Only one purcell, the other one is just a loop of cord. Not two purcells because for ascending the loop goes on top and the purcell for the feet, a second purcell would be too long and the prussik on the rope to be ascended would be too far above your head.

Here's a good vid for tying a purcell.
youtube.com/watch?v=vng4NVY…

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they prob just dont like jon, they discriminate like that against those who hurt their fragile feelings at one time or another. pretty awesome actually but it's their site so whateves

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For the record I never flag anything.

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Nothing like a good public flagging to set you straight. Bet you won't do THAT again!

Flagging

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I'm poor as fuck lady