|609 page views|
The A-Frame Roof is a great route, but a ridiculous sandbag to me saying that it is only 5.10b. I suppose that because it is a roof, height and body build could be a factor in how hard this one feels; for me being a taller person, the route feels much harder. So, take that for what itís worth, just another opinion. However, it is a legitimate climb and one that is definitely worth aspiring to lead. No doubt the gear is a little thin and hard to get, but it is all there. Let me give you a little beta. Climb up to just beneath the roof and try to get in something like a number two Camalot on a long sling. Make sure the carabiner comes out past the edge of the roof to avoid rope drag. Next I get in a red Metolius (number 4 I think) TCU or FCU in the lip of the roof, but it is pretty rotten here. Reaching a little higher, a person can get in a fairly good purple Metolius (number 0) or a blue Alien. I always down climb from this point and bounce test my gear. Yes, I used to be an aid climber.... You do know how to bounce test your gear donít you? Once you think the gear is safe, climb up past the lip of the roof and get in a wide stem. Look for a crescent-shaped hold on the right side of the face. Some good holds for the left hand can be found if you take your time to look and are creative. Get well established here, and the comfort factor is not so bad. Get your right foot a little higher in the stem, and make a high reach to a good finger crack for the left hand. A good yellow BD stopper (number 8 I think) fits in where the crack constricts for your fingers. Fire for the top, mainly trending to the left. This one is short, but sweet, and definitely gets your attention. There is a great tree at the top for setting up a top rope for those who are a little saner, or are practicing for a redpoint. Congratulations to you if you manage to on-sight this one; you deserve it. Cheers.
Look for the obvious roof splitting the middle of Creekside wall, just to the right of Old Aid, and just left of the Downclimb Route.
Go for it... not much to be had, but it mostly takes medium to smaller-sized pieces.
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
Nov 5, 2008
Not that I was planning to go down there or anything, but even if I was, you just blew my onsight. Thanks.
It's ok to offer detailed beta. In the comments.
As it stands, I have no idea what to expect from the rest of the route, if I should be following a crack to the roof, or what. So thanks for that.
From: colorado springs, CO
Jul 27, 2013
This route is definitely sandbagged. I'd say it's 10d if not 11aish. Requires some big dynamic moves, especially if you're shorter.