A Fly in the Ointment 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand, 1/12/2008 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Greg Hand on Jan 12, 2008 |
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Description Layback past 3 bolts (crux) to a big bucket. Place a small cam to protect a move to a big ledge. Follow the final crack of Tool King to anchors.
The name was inspired by a recent trip to Australia. I got very good at the Australian Salute, not to mention spitting them out.
Location Begin just right of Tool King.
Protection 3 bolts plus finger size to 1 1/4" cams.
| Comments on A Fly in the Ointment |
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 19, 2008
rating: 5.10c
| A pumpy and committing route. We toproped the line after leading Tool King. The moves past the three bolts are strenuous liebacking and it looked difficult to let go to make the third clip. If you're not a solid 5.10 leader, better to toprope this line. |
By Phil Lauffen
From: Louyuppie
Feb 3, 2009
rating: 5.10-
| I led this today, the second clip was the most difficult to make. After that it was pretty juggy, but I didn't bring enough finger-sized cams so I ended up running it out a bit. Kind of dirty and there is some bird crap but a route worth trying if you're in the area. |
By Climberordinaire
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.10+
| Winter has not been kind to this climb. The layback flake between the 1st and 2nd bolt is now mostly gone, pulled off yesterday afternoon (5/25/09). There are still edges and some flake to lay off of but now a mid to hard 10. |
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Oct 2, 2009
rating: 5.10a
| Climbed this today, so no prior experience with the liebacks, and I'm no powerhouse at 52. I believe more pieces will break off, but don't think it will change the grade much at 10a. Didn't see the need for any larger than a .75 camalot. Nice climb! |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2010
rating: 5.10
| My partner broke bt bottom hold, then cleaned it up- more broke away while standing on it. I cleaned it more, then more shed while standing on it. More bound to come with time- watch the feet while clipping bolt #2. The rest of the route is more solid. |
By Sarah Meiser
From: Boulder, Colorado
Mar 28, 2011
| Entire route seems solid now, looks like everything that could break off did already. Fun, pumpy climb. |
By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.10b
| Fun, pumpy climb that offers quite the variety of climbing styles. Clips weren't bad, do this climb! |
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