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> 7. W End Wall
A Flickering Flame
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.4 from 8
votes
Routes in 7. West End Wall
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A Flickering Flame T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Basalt of the Earth T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bat Outta Hell T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Callused Earth Skin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Collar Blind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Disco's Dead T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Discothèque T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Eyes on Fire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jade Feather T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Like a Shadow in the Night T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mental Block T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Nyctophiliac T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Phantasm T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Plain Jane Glory T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Shoshin T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Soul Feather T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13 |
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Soultangler T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stemistry T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Take a Chance on Me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 125 ft (38 m) |
| FA: | Joel Unema, JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2015 |
| Page Views: | 1,772 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Nov 27, 2015 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
It takes but one small flame to dispell all the darkness in the universe....
A Flickering Flame is a quasi-adventurous, all natural gear route, that for the grade will please the connoisseur with an airy, powerful crux. The gently overhanging crux section offers good gear and very bouldery sequences up a stunning, obtuse dihedral accented with a flickering orange and yellow streak which runs vertically parallel to the upper seam.
Rappel down the Nycto Gully 125' to a pillar top one bolt belay. #.3- #.5 are handy at the belay.
Start as you would for Like A Shadow In The Night. At roughly the 50' mark, figure out the compression problem which grants access to the bottomed out, "backwards J" seam out climber's right. Once established on the seam, several big, cruxy moves follow over good gear and open air.
If you make it to the rather enjoyable jug after the crux section, it's time to calm down and regroup, as the next 30' is technical climbing and placing some of the gear on the run. This section is gorgeous as you climb along the bright, broken orange streak on your left.
Once the angle breaks, climb to the right of a small oak bush up rather fun 5.8 to the top. Exit into the Nycto Gully.
A Flickering Flame is a quasi-adventurous, all natural gear route, that for the grade will please the connoisseur with an airy, powerful crux. The gently overhanging crux section offers good gear and very bouldery sequences up a stunning, obtuse dihedral accented with a flickering orange and yellow streak which runs vertically parallel to the upper seam.
Rappel down the Nycto Gully 125' to a pillar top one bolt belay. #.3- #.5 are handy at the belay.
Start as you would for Like A Shadow In The Night. At roughly the 50' mark, figure out the compression problem which grants access to the bottomed out, "backwards J" seam out climber's right. Once established on the seam, several big, cruxy moves follow over good gear and open air.
If you make it to the rather enjoyable jug after the crux section, it's time to calm down and regroup, as the next 30' is technical climbing and placing some of the gear on the run. This section is gorgeous as you climb along the bright, broken orange streak on your left.
Once the angle breaks, climb to the right of a small oak bush up rather fun 5.8 to the top. Exit into the Nycto Gully.
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