A Few Too Many 5.12
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| Type: | Sport, 55 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12 [details] |
| FA: | EFR, JohnBaker, Jesse Schulz,'10 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Aug 8, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: John Baker on the easy ground between the two hard...
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Description Two cruxes, one on the lower tier and one on the sharply overhanging plated face above. Unfortunately there is about 20 feet of very easy climbing between the lower tier and the upper. So one is doing two 20 foot crux sections with a good rest between them. The anchors are just a few feet past the final holds and you will need to get your shoulders past them to clip them and it is a hard clip until you get your feet and fingers set. A lot of folks will be grabbing the anchors on this one.
Location Starts in a right angling seam with some gray quartz crystals in it about 25 feet left and below the start of Registered NILFs.
Protection Bolts
BETA PHOTO: Jesse belaying John or lassoing him at the start o...
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John attempts to figure out the last few feet then...
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Baker in retreat.
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Jesse about to clip.
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| Comments on A Few Too Many |
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By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 28, 2010
| Your evil plan worked Eric - I couldn't clip those @#*!%! anchors! |
By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 29, 2010
| I found that if I focus on climbing until it is possible to clip them at at about waist level rather than focusing on clipping the anchors it is not too bad. Very balancy though. |
By Jimbo
Oct 4, 2010
| Well guess I don't need to get on this climb again if I have to focus.
Hard move at the top! |
By Jimbo
Nov 9, 2010
| Found a new hold (I use the term loosely) today which made the finish a bit easier.
I do it completely differently than EFR. Jesse also used a hold I didn't. Look around there's more than one way to finish this climb.
Now that I've done it, I kind up like this climb. In a sick masochistic sort of way. |
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